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WARNING: The war between Hamas and Israel continues. Israel has launched a full scale ground invasion, along with airstrikes. The situation is dire: shortages of essential supplies such as food and medicine are exacerbating the crisis. The healthcare system has collapsed. There is a strong advisory against travel for any reason. For more information on staying safe in a war zone, please refer to war zone safety. |
Government travel advisories
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| (Information last updated 29 Aug 2024) |
The Gaza Strip (Arabic غزة, Ghazzah, Hebrew עזה Azza) is a Palestinian territory in the Middle East. The capital and largest city is Gaza. Portions of this page may be out of date because the situation on the ground changes quickly.
Understand
[edit]Positioned between Israel and Egypt, Gaza Strip contains several towns and cities that have grown together. The capital and largest city is Gaza, with Khan Yunis and Rafah being the second and third largest. Several smaller villages are nestled between these cities. It does have reasonably modern infrastructure and architecture despite its troubles, but a UN report as early as 1952 stated that the Strip was too small to support its population of 300,000, and now there are well over 1.7 million inhabitants. On 7 October 2023, the Israel-Hamas War broke out, and thousands of people have been killed.
Most inhabitants are descendants of Palestinian refugees who fled or were expelled from their homes in Israel during or after the 1948 war and were not allowed to return to their homes and villages. As they were not Egyptian citizens they were not allowed into Egypt, either.
History
[edit]Gaza has been around for a while: the earliest known reference is an inscription in the Temple of Amun at Karnak, Egypt, dated 1500 BC, which states that the town of Gaza is 'flourishing'. And for a long time it did: a staging post on trade routes connecting Asia and Persia with Arabia, Egypt and Africa, even the name means "treasure" in Arabic. Alexander the Great laid siege to the town in 332 BC, executing 10,000 defenders after being held off for two months. Later, the town was held by the Romans, the Crusaders, the Mamluks, the Ottomans and briefly even by the French in 1799, when Napoleon Bonaparte set up camp on his way to defeat in Egypt. The Turks took it back, then lost it to the British in World War I. The Egyptian army grabbed it during the 1948 war that led to Israel's independence, opening camps for Palestinian refugees who fled and were expelled from their homes by Israeli forces — and the current situation began when Israel occupied the Strip in 1967.
Spurred by the violence of the 1987–1993 Intifada ("Uprising"), Israel and the Palestine Liberation Organization signed a "Declaration of Principles on Interim Self-Government Arrangements" in 1993, under which the Palestinian Authority (PA) was created to govern the Gaza Strip and the West Bank for a transitional period "not exceeding five years" as a step towards full independence. Parts of the territories were indeed handed over to the PA between 1994 and 1999, but the peace plans were derailed by the second intifada that broke out in September 2000, unleashing another spiral of violence.
Israel unilaterally disengaged from Gaza in 2005, evacuating Jewish settlements and withdrawing its troops from the territory. It did however retain control of the airspace and the coastline in addition to the fact the entire region is circled by a large armed security fence. The Islamist Hamas won elections in 2006 and violently kicked out or killed the remnants of the Palestinian Authority in 2007. Under Hamas rule, there have been repeated incidents of missile launches from Gaza into Israel and Israeli targeted assassinations of terrorists in Gaza, bombings, and incursions or invasions of Gaza. Israel has also heavily restricted the movement of trade, aid, and people between Gaza and Israel in response to attacks on border crossing points and the Hamas government's non-recognition of Israel. Relations between Hamas and the Egyptian government have also been tense at times, with the Egyptian government sometimes blaming Hamas for attacks on Egyptian security forces and civilians in the Sinai but also condemning Israeli actions against Gaza. From December 2008 to January 2009, Israel launched a massive coordinated air, naval, and land offensive against the Hamas government and allied militant organizations. Hostilities resumed in 2012, but a short-lived ceasefire was restored with the help of Egyptian mediation.
In 2024, Israel is at war with Hamas in the Gaza Strip. It's very unlikely that you will be able to get into Gaza unless you are an accredited journalist, or UN or charity worker, and you will have performed in-depth risk assessments. Do not rely on a travel guide for your risk assessment. Civilian infrastructure has been hit very hard, and your presence in the strip will divert resources from the needy.
Geography
[edit]
The Gaza Strip is a narrow, 40-km long slice of land between the Mediterranean to the west and the Negev desert to the east. Egypt lies to the south, the north and east border Israel. The urban sprawl of Gaza City, mostly stretching along and around the 3-km long Omar al-Mukhtar Street, covers much of the north. The other main towns of Khan Yunis and Rafah are near the southern border, with most of the rest covered with agricultural land.
A bit of terminology disentanglement: Gaza Strip refers to the entire 40km by 6km patch of territory. The strip is slightly smaller than Barbados and slightly larger than Malta. Gaza City refers to the town itself, in the northern part of the strip, but due to huge population growth the City now sprawls into many of the surrounding villages and it's a tough task to say what is a part of the City and what isn't. Both city and strip are pretty much interchangeably referred to as Gaza and this guide will follow suit.
Climate
[edit]Temperate, mild winters, dry and warm to hot summers.
Terrain
[edit]Flat to rolling, sand and dune covered coastal plain. Cultivated land.
Highest point: Abu 'Awdah (Joz Abu 'Auda) 105 m (344 ft)
Get in
[edit]Getting into Gaza is both difficult and unwise. As of around 2003, all would-be visitors were required to apply in advance for Israeli permission to enter the Strip. The application is usually submitted through your embassy in Israel and, in theory takes between 5–10 days. In practice, it can take months, and if you're not either a fully accredited journalist or an aid/human rights worker, you're unlikely to get permission to enter Gaza from Israel.
Because of the Israel-Hamas war, it is not possible to enter Gaza from Egypt through the Rafah crossing.
By plane
[edit]Gaza has no functioning airport, as the former Yasser Arafat International Airport (GZA IATA) has been shut down, and the runway was destroyed by Israeli bulldozers in 2002. The closest airports are El Arish International Airport in Egypt (which has no commercial flights) and Ben Gurion Airport near Tel Aviv (TLV IATA). The closest non-Israeli commercial airports are Jordan's Queen Alia International Airport (AMM IATA) and King Hussein International Airport (AQJ IATA), while the closest Egyptian-controlled airport with non-charter commercial service is Cairo International Airport (CAI IATA). Taba International Airport (TCP IATA) is closer than Cairo, but only charter flights fly there.
Entry by land
[edit]
The main point of entry is through the Erez crossing in the north, on the border with Israel. Getting to Erez is easiest done by taxi, it's also possible to travel by Dan BaDarom[dead link] bus #20 from Ashkelon to the checkpoint.
You will need a permit from the Israeli Army, or a GPO (press) card. If you have a permit, you need coordination with the Israeli Army, specifying when you are planning to enter and leave Gaza. Journalists with a Government Press Office (GPO) card can come and go as they please. Only vehicles with prior coordination (such as a handful of UN cars) are allowed to drive in and only after a thorough search, which may take months. It's very helpful to travel with someone that's run the gauntlet before the first time via Erez.
At Erez, you have to approach the Israeli soldier in a pillbox. They may ask you to open your bags on the table, and (as at TLV) ask if you have weapons. They'll check your passports and permits for allowed entry. You then wait outside an electronic gate for your turn to be called through. You then enter the terminal, hand your passport and coordination over to another soldier to receive an Israeli exit stamp. That soldier may or may not ask you more questions, usually things like whether it's your first time in Gaza, etc.
If everything is satisfactory, take back your documents and follow the signs directing you to Gaza. After exiting the terminal, you end up in a long barren concrete tunnel. Don't bring anything too bulky as you'll have to go through a turnstile gate. Coming through the tunnel, you cross a no-man's-land. This is at least 1000m long. Palestinians are allowed in this area so you may be lucky and find a porter, trolley, wheelchair, or similar. Take it. If you take the tuk-tuk, keep your hands inside the vehicle at all times and enjoy the ride.
After the gated tunnel you will emerge near a small hut. This is a checkpoint which can be ignored on the way to Gaza (but ignored at your peril on the way back). The only people here will be a few taxi drivers.
Take a taxi to the Palestinian checkpoint, another 800 m down the road. The going rate is ₪3 per person. You will be searched for unlawful items (make sure you are, it's the hut to the right. Also visit the hut to the left to check your Hamas credentials)
Prohibited goods include alcohol and non-halal food, banned by the Hamas government. If you fail inspection, then at best, your items will be confiscated. At worst, you will be arrested; you are unlikely to see any guns at this point. In a particularly bad situation, retreat to Israel.
Once you are through, you can take another taxi, or more likely be picked up by your local contact.
Exit by land
[edit]Entry, though difficult, pales in comparison to exit. After being deposited at the Hamas checkpoint near Hamsa Hamsa, go to the white caravan to your right to get your exit clearance.
Once through, take the taxi (₪3/person) to the forward checkpoint (where the wire fence begins). Then, go to the hut on the right. A man will take your passport and call ahead to tell the Israelis you're coming. Ignore this at your own peril.
Once you get your passport back, take the tuk-tuk if possible, or begin the 1 km+ walk to Israel.
When you reach the end of the tunnel, you'll see several doors. Once a handful of people have gathered, one of the doors will open (indicated by a green light on top of the door).
You will then enter a hall with a table at the centre. Open your bags at the table (there are no obvious signs to do this, but look up and there's a camera. They are checking for obvious things like large bombs)
When they've ensured you have no prohibited items in your bags, go through the turnstile when the light flashes green. You will not receive a verbal "OK", but rest assured you will be shouted at in Hebrew if you're not ok.
You will see toilet facilities to your right. Use them. Follow the arrows to Israel. You will then encounter another hall with eight doorways. Wait until one of the lights go green then enter that doorway. Leave your bags with the porter at a large security scanner. You should remove all electronics not just laptops, but things like disk drives, mobile phones, etc.) and place them in the large trays. Remove your belt, watch, etc. too.
Keep your passport and ID on you and enter a series of gates as the lights flash green. When you come to the body scanner (a MMW scanner), put your feet on the markers and place your hands over your head in an "I surrender" pose. Keep your passport in your hands. If you've passed initial screening, you will be allowed out to a hall where it appears as if your bags will emerge on a conveyor belt. There may even be empty trays circling it.
Walk straight through to the departures hall, as your bag will be selected for a hand search. On your left in a row where trays with bags will gather, and you can see the guards searching your bags. Wait patiently. If you haven't passed initial screening, you'll be directed through further scanning. There is a separate section that will reveal itself to you if the guards in the gallery above find the need for a strip search.
Once you collect your belongings, you will finally pass through Israeli entry, and get a new stamp in your passport. You're then free and in Israel. Count yourself lucky you own a western passport.
Exit from Gaza could take from 30 minutes to several hours. The checkpoint closes at 14:00, or even earlier. If you are stuck between Hamas and Israel phone your embassy for assistance, but don't try to re-enter Gaza. If you're using Erez you're probably "western", and you're safer in Israeli hands.
By boat
[edit]The port of Gaza is non-operational, and Gazan waters, seaports, and the coastline are patrolled by the Israeli Navy. If you attempt to reach the Gaza shoreline by boat, you will be stopped by Israeli naval vessels, and turned back. Only boats with prior permission are allowed in. All boats coming from Gaza are allowed to venture six nautical miles into the sea. Any vessel crossing this line is fired on. In 2010 a six-ship flotilla attempted to reach Gaza by sea, and was intercepted by Israeli warships; ten people were killed by Israeli forces and the ships never reached Gaza. It is strongly recommended not to attempt to visit Gaza in this manner.
Get around
[edit]
There is no public transport in Gaza, but there are numerous service (ser-VEESS) taxis. Navigation is done by landmark, not street address. Stand on the side of the road that is in the desired direction of travel. When a driver stops indicate the destination landmark e.g., "Shifa" and the number of passengers ("wahid" for one, "it-nayn" for two.) If the driver is not headed that way, he may drive on. Travel up and down Omar al-Mukhtar St. will set you back ₪1; trips elsewhere are negotiable. Near al-Shifa hospital is a line of taxis that travel to destinations beyond Gaza city. The drivers yell out their destination and wait until their vehicle is pretty much full before they leave. It is advisable to watch your step if walking, since traffic is chaotic and sidewalks are largely non-existent.
Talk
[edit]The standard language is Arabic. Hebrew is also understood to some extent, but given the dislike towards Israelis by many Palestinians, English is a safer option.
See
[edit]
Gaza is not exactly a top tourist destination and most of its attractions have taken quite a beating during the past 50 years.
- 1 Grand Omari Mosque (جامع غزة الكبير, Jāmaʿ Ghazza al-Kabīr). Makes up for its lacklustre appearance with an interesting history: it's a converted Crusader church built on the site of a Hellenic temple with pillars from a 3rd-century Jewish synagogue.
- 2 Ibn Uthman Mosque (مسجد ابن عثمان). Completed in 1431.
- 3 Ibn Marwan Mosque. Built in 1324.
- 4 Sayed al-Hashim Mosque (In Old City of Gaza).
- 5 Katib al-Wilaya Mosque (جامع الولايات). A late medieval mosque.
- 6 Church of Saint Porphyrius. Orthodox church, celebrating Saint Porphyrius who was Bishop of Gaza around 395-420 CE. The current church was built around 1150 by crusaders and renovated extensively in 1856.
- 7 Holy Family Church (كنيسة العائلة المقدسة). Only Catholic church in Gaza.
- 8 Qasr al-Basha (قصر الباشا). Dating back to the 13th century, this former fort is now a museum.
- 9 Caravanserai of Yūnus al-Dawādār (In Khan Yunis, next to the Great Mosque). Also known locally as Barquq Castle. This fortified khan (Arabic inn) dates back to 1387 AD.
- 10 Great Mosque of Khan Yunis (المسجد الكبير) (In Khan Yunis). Main mosque in Khan Yunis, built in 1928.
- 11 Al-Qarara Cultural Museum (متحف القرارة الثقافي) (In Khan Yunis).
- 12 Ruins of Saint Hilarion Monastery. Located att the archaeological site Tell Umm el-'Amr, Saint Hilarion was an active monastery for four centuries, from the late Late Roman to the Umayyad period. Named after Hilarion the Great (291–371 AD), who is venerated as a saint by the Orthodox and the Roman Catholic Church. The tell and monastery were listed as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2024. - 13 Gaza War Cemetery, Salah al-Din Rd. Burial site of over 3,000 British and Commonwealth servicemen who perished in the First World War, mainly in the battles for Gaza during 1917.
- More educational might be a UNRWA-arranged visit to one of the refugee camps that dot the strip. The UNRWA office is on al-Azhar St, near the Islamic University, call ahead to see if they can arrange a little tour. Your most probable destination is the optimistically named Beach Camp, a warren of concrete huts and open sewers housing 63,000 people, built next to a sandy beach - and you can walk there on your own, 15 minutes to the north from the intersection of Omar al-Mukhtar St. with the seafront road. UNRWA wisely recommends avoiding military clothing. The Jabaliya refugee camp is also a nearby option. Women visiting the camps should dress more conservatively than they need to in Gaza City - headscarves are certainly recommended.
Do
[edit]There's very little to do in Gaza for the average tourist. There is a beach, however the water isn't the cleanest in the area, you'd be better off on a beach further north in Israel. There are nice sunsets though over the Med, which can be seen from hotels like the Al Deira.
Buy
[edit]Despite the intense conflict and rhetoric, Gazans use the Israeli shekel (₪). But bring some boxes of cigarettes into the Strip and everyone will be your friend. However, please note the policemen at the Hamas checkpoint into Gaza are now opening all bags and disposing of any alcohol (since early 2009). Do not bring alcohol into Gaza, it could land you into serious trouble and it is always good to respect local Islamic customs.
- 1 Gaza City Centre. This elegant mall opened in 2010 is the place to be to escape the hubbub of Gaza's bustling Rimal district. With a fully-stocked supermarket, fast food restaurant and multiple shops, Gazans have quickly taken to this place. Enjoy the relaxing fountains if you have had enough of shopping or need a break. The Gaza Mall is comparable to most Western-style malls only in structure and comfort, but not even remotely in size. You will usually find it packed to the brim with residents of Rimal in the summer escaping the midday heat and may quickly find you want to escape elsewhere.
- PLO Flag Shop. A bit tough to find (ask around) but unmistakable once you spot it. It's the place to buy Palestinian flags, stickers, badges, and pennants.
- Interesting sculptures / lampshades fashioned from old cigarette cartons.
- Foustouk and simsimiya. The former is a sticky peanuty snack. The latter is its sesame cousin. An elderly man in Gaza City with a grey tweed jacket crops up on a different street corner when he has a fresh batch.
Eat
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Usual Arabic cheap eats are available anywhere. Head to the posh suburb of Rimal for fancier food; the restaurant in the Windmill Hotel is nice. If you wish to bring in any food, you should first check which foods are and are not acceptable under Islamic law. If you are caught with forbidden food, it may lead to trouble with the authorities or the local population. Finally, it is not unheard of to be invited over for dinner.
- Abu Hassera. Fish specialist.
- Aldeira Restaurant. On the seaside terrace, this restaurant serves lovely mezes (small Mediterranean-style dishes), including the Gazan speciality Daqqa (a sometimes very spicy chili salad, very nice). They also have some tasty main courses: try the shrimps in tomato sauce, baked in the oven, and served in a clay pot. And don't miss out on the fresh strawberry juice! Enhanced with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream, it is highly enjoyable.
- Matouk (behind the legislative council building). Serves an excellent chicken tawwouk.
- 1 [dead link] Roots Club, Cairo St, Remal (in the heart of Gaza City), ☏ +972 8 2888666, fax: +972 8 2888999, [email protected]. Fine dining. Offers both high end Arabian/Mediterranean cuisine and cheaper fast food at the Big Bite annex. The restaurant frequently caters for special events, including foreign dignitaries and heads of non-governmental organizations.
- Seafood Restaurant (just north of al-Deira hotel). Very good seafood restaurant.
- Al Mat'haf Resort (Soudnya beach), ☏ +970 8 2858444. On a small hill overlooking the sea in Gaza stands “Al-Mathaf” (Arabic for “The Museum”, pronounced Al-Mat-Haf), a one-of-a-kind recreation and cultural center that showcases Gaza’s rich historical past and seamlessly blends it into the context of life in modern Gaza. As its name suggests, Al-Mathaf is home to Gaza’s finest archaeological museum, which is filled with beautiful artifacts that celebrate Gaza’s rich cultural heritage. Alongside these historical treasures of ancient civilizations, today’s Gazans gathers at Al-Mathaf’s beautiful Restaurant-Café, a center of modern culture and recreation in Gaza. In a time when many in Gaza have forgotten our heritage, Al-Mathaf aims to preserve the region's rich history, provide a venue for modern cultural dialogue, and carry a message for this generation to build a brighter future.
Drink
[edit]Due to increasingly strong Hamas influences, alcohol is no longer available. Alcohol is forbidden in their interpretation of Islam, and Hamas, as a conservative Islamic group, prohibits it. If you do manage to find some, you should not attempt to go out under the influence; you may land in a very bad situation. If you are caught with booze on your person by Hamas authorities, it will probably be confiscated, and you may be detained. Bags are given a quick search on entry to Gaza.
Sleep
[edit]
There are several hotels in Gaza. However, it is also possible to stay with locals who might even invite you over for a night.
- 1 Al Deira Hotel (فندق الديرة غزة فلسطين), ☏ +972 8 283 8100, fax: +972 8 283 8400, [email protected]. Massive rooms with a view of the sea, breakfast included. Most international journalists and NGOs stay at the Deira, which has a back-up generator, a business centre and WiFi. Pleasant (though by Gaza's standards not superb) restaurant (with Shisha pipes, although not allowed in the fine Oriental bedrooms). Don't be alarmed that the water tastes salty. Rooms include non-alcoholic minibar, hairdryer, towels, soap, shampoo, conditioner, and a little plate of cookies. $100–185USD/night.
- Commodore Hotel. Has a sauna, jacuzzi, massage, multiple restaurants, 24-hour room service, a swimming pool, and reportedly Kosher food.
- Grand Palace Hotel, Al Rasheed Street, ☏ +970 8 2849498, fax: +970 8 2849497, [email protected]. At the beach side of Gaza city, 3km from city centre, direct beach view, conference, food and beverage facilities.
- Marna House. Gaza's oldest hotel, run by a friendly family.
- 2 Al Mat'haf Hotel, [email protected] (Soudunya beach), ☏ +970 8 2858444. As a second phase, Al-Mathaf is just completed the construction of a boutique hotel, which will feature traditionally designed rooms with a sea view, as well as multi-purpose halls and facilities to provide business services, as well as health, fitness, and spa facilities.
- 3 Grand Chalet (جراند شاليه), +970 566 400 040. Luxury lodging by the sea.
Work
[edit]Realistically, if you are not already an aid worker, journalist or diplomat, there is no work for you in Gaza. There are a number of NGOs offering internships, such as the Al-Dameer Association for Human Rights in Gaza, the Palestinian Center For Human Rights and others, but these must be arranged well before you get to Gaza.
Stay safe
[edit]- See also: War zone safety
As of August 2024, Gaza is at war and almost certainly the single most dangerous location to travel to. Anybody who somehow makes it in shouldn't expect any form of food, water, or medicine other than what they brought in themselves. Disease is rampant as a result of poor sanitation, and as of July 2024, there's been an outbreak of polio. Bombings can happen anywhere, including the refugee camps, at any time. If you find yourself in danger (which is likely), your government will not be able to offer any form of assistance.
Gaza's power station and its substation have been severely damaged by Israeli airstrikes and no longer function at the intended capacity. Power outages are very common. These outages are countered by large industrial and small commercial diesel generators which combine to create a cacophony that the locals have somehow become desensitised to. Some of these generators are poorly maintained and leak carbon monoxide. Visitors should be wary of this, particularly in enclosed spaces where it has proven fatal.
Stay healthy
[edit]Tap water in Gaza is not potable and is often dangerously dirty. Some hotels may use filters, but if in doubt, just buy bottles.
Israel has blockaded the area since 2007. However, food and medical supplies are generally allowed in after inspection. Any medical requirements should be taken care of in Israel or elsewhere. Anyone visiting Gaza is well advised to have a good grounding in first aid and bring in their own first aid kits. Beware that medical evacuations to Israel can require a long wait at the border.
Diseases such as yellow fever, malaria and West Nile virus are fairly common in the Gaza Strip. Get vaccinated, wear protective clothing and use mosquito repellent.
Respect
[edit]Women should dress conservatively, especially if entering refugee camps. Conservatively within Gaza City means a top with long sleeves and absolutely nothing low cut in the front. Ideally, tops should also be long. Trousers are suitable as long as they are loose and full length, not capri pants.
Connect
[edit]Go next
[edit]Passage to both of these countries is restricted: