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Island Peak Trek Voyage Tips and guide

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Summit of Island Peak.

Island Peak (6,189m), officially known as Imja Tse, is a mountain in the Khumbu (Everest) region in Nepal that's one of the most commonly climbed "trekking peaks" in Nepal. It can be climbed as part of several different trekking itineraries.

Understand

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Island Peak was originally named by Eric Shipton in 1952 (some sources say 1951) and was so named because it sits in the middle of the upper Chhukhung valley, like an island in the middle of a sea of ice. It was officially renamed Imja Tse in the early 1980s. Imja Tse simply means Island Peak in Nepali. The peak was first summited by Gopendranath Dutta on 6 Oct. 1951 during Eric Shipton's Mt. Everest riki expedition in 1951.

Much of the upper Khumbu Valley is within Sagarmatha National Park. The park was created in 1976 and was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1979. It was first climbed in 1953 as part of a training exercise by a British expedition that went on to summit Mt Everest. Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, who was one of the first two humans credited with climbing Mount Everest, was also one of the first to summit Island Peak.

It's considered to be a moderately easy peak by alpine standards and can be attempted by people with little or no alpine experience. Normally, trekking/climbing organizations offer to teach the novice Alpinist what they need to know to attempt the peak.

Island Peak can be climbed during two seasons on either side of the monsoon, spring (mid-March to May) and autumn (mid-September to November). It's possible to climb the peak during the winter but cold temperatures will present additional difficulties.

The summit of Island Peak is at 6,189m so the rate of elevation gain and the consequent risk of Altitude sickness or specifically Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a very real concern. Your general fitness and your acclimatization process will both be very important.

The trek to Island Peak initially follows the main Everest Base Camp Trek route, but separates near Dingboche. Most teams attempting the mountain will initially fly to Lukla and hike from there. Although itineraries include an attempt to summit Island Peak, many people visit the area as trekkers. If you are trekking and not climbing, there are additional options for exploring the Khumbu region.

Be aware that weather conditions around Lukla and Island Peak, as well as Kathmandu, may play havoc with flights and trekking/climbing schedules. It's best to be flexible with your arrival and departure dates and even be prepared to have the expedition cancelled completely, almost without notice.

If you succeed in reaching the summit of Island Peak, you'll be rewarded with views of nearby mountains such as Mount Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and others in the immediate vicinity.

Prepare

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Prior experience with rope management and alpine equipment (harnesses, ascenders, crampons, ice axes) is a significant advantage, and the better your general fitness the more you will enjoy the climb. Some organisations offer abbreviated itineraries of around 14 days aimed at fit, experienced and already somewhat acclimatised climbers; if none of those conditions apply to you, look for an itinerary of around 19 days that builds in time to acclimatise properly and learn equipment use. Most big peaks involve a certain amount of suffering — anything you can do in advance to reduce it will work in your favour.

The Nepal Mountaineering Association classifies Imja Tse as a "Group B" climbing peak, and an NMA-registered Sirdar/Guide is mandatory. A climbing permit costs USD 350 for a group of up to four climbers, with an additional USD 40 per person beyond that, plus a USD 250 deposit to ensure compliance with garbage regulations. Familiarise yourself with the duties assigned to the Sirdar/Guide under Nepal's climbing regulations. A climbing permit removes the need for a separate TIMS card; trekkers without one need a green card (NPR 2,000) if independent, or a blue card (NPR 1,000) if part of a guided group.

If using a trekking company — which does offer real logistical advantages — look for one registered with the Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal, or rely on recommendations from people you know. Hiring a local Nepali company is worth considering both for cost reasons and to keep money in the local economy. Finally, arrange rescue insurance before you leave, and make sure your policy explicitly covers mountaineering rather than hiking only — the distinction matters and many standard policies will not cover peak climbing.

Costs rise steadily as you gain altitude, since almost everything must be carried in from the trailhead. Basic lodge rooms run NPR 200–500 (attached bathroom), with the expectation that guests take their meals there; eating elsewhere pushes room rates up considerably. Budget around NPR 250–500 per dish, so a modest multi-course supper can easily reach NPR 1,000. Luxury lodges charge USD 150–200 per day. A guide costs around USD 25 per day and a porter USD 15, though hiring through a local Nepali company is cheaper and keeps money in the local economy — budget a tip of 15–25% of staff wages, paid in cash at the end. A one-way Kathmandu–Lukla flight is USD 177. All in, a 2–3 week trek including flights, guide, porter, food, accommodation and tips will typically run USD 1,200–1,500.

Eat

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Following as it does, the Everest Base Camp Trek, the route to Island Peak will provide opportunities for all kinds of foods. The hungry trekker will find lodges, bakeries, pizza shops and almost anything else your palate might desire. Expect to take your breakfast and supper meals at the lodge where you are spending the night. This is the trade-off of having inexpensive accommodation.

The "traditional" trekking meals include the following:

  • Breakfast - scrambled eggs, oatmeal, muesli, Tibetan bread, tea
  • Lunch - pasta or rice with potatoes, tea
  • Supper - rice dishes, tomato pasta dishes, "pizza" in various forms, soups, chicken burgers, chips ("french fries"), tea

Drink

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All the usual Nepali favourites will be available on this trek. For environmental reasons, try to avoid drinks that come in plastic bottles as there is really no effective way to recycle such things here. Glass bottles aren't really much better and their weight means that they won't get recycled either.

Sleep

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With all the people visiting the area, trekkers, climbers heading for various mountains, especially Everest, the villages along the route have "enjoyed" an influx of money and, consequently, there has been a bit of a building boom. Expect to find lodges in almost every village along the route. There are far too many to include an extensive list here, but a few can be mentioned. For example, the quantity of accommodation in Namche Bazaar is almost astonishing, although at the height of the trekking and climbing season, space may be hard to find unless you are prepared to stop early.

Note that while accommodation in some lodges can seem inexpensive, you are usually expected to take your meals at the lodge. That's where the lodge owners make their money. During the peak of the climbing and trekking season, when the hordes have descended on the Khumbu, there still may be some competition for places to stay, even with the number of lodges available. There might be some advantage to getting on the trail early each day and stopping early in the afternoon. Groups with a few Sherpas will often send one out early in the morning ahead of the group to secure accommodation well before lunch and hours before their group catches up with them.

Climate

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Island Peak (Imja Tse, 6,189 m) sits in the Khumbu region of the Nepal Himalaya and shares the broader Everest-area weather patterns. Expect cold temperatures at all elevations; even in the warmest months, nights above 4,000 m can drop well below freezing.

Spring (March–May) and autumn (late September–November) are the two recommended seasons. Spring brings warmer days, blooming rhododendrons at lower elevations, and generally stable skies, though afternoon cloud build-up becomes more common toward late May as the monsoon approaches. Daytime temperatures above 4,000 m average around 15–17 °C; nights can fall to −15 °C. Autumn is the most popular season: post-monsoon air is exceptionally clear, offering outstanding mountain views, with temperatures broadly similar to spring though nights grow colder by late November, dipping to around −15 °C or below.

Monsoon (June–early September) brings heavy rain to the lower valleys, muddy and leech-infested trails, persistent cloud cover obscuring the peaks, and a heightened risk of avalanche from wet snow at altitude. Most trekkers avoid this period. Winter (December–February) is cold and windy, with temperatures on the upper mountain reaching −22 °C and many teahouses closing; only well-equipped and experienced climbers attempt the peak at this time.

The weather can change rapidly at altitude regardless of season. An early summit start—typically 2–3 AM—is standard practice to take advantage of firm snow and calmer morning conditions.

Get in

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In the "old days" people visiting the Everest area would simply trek there from Kathmandu. You'd have lots of time over a couple of weeks to get fit and acclimatize. That's not usually what people do now. Most will now opt to fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and pay about USD161 to do so. Consequently, there are dozens of flights in and out of Lukla each day and if weather causes delays, things can get backed up very, very quickly.

The organized itineraries offered by trekking companies, which you will likely be using, all include a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and back to Kathmandu the same way at the trek's end. It's always possible, however, to have trekking companies set up whatever custom options you want. With that in mind, there are four other possible places to start your trek into the Khumbu and end up at Island Peak if you have a few additional days:

  • 27.60675486.2978011 Shivalaya - about six days south-west of Lukla. During the 1950s and 1960s, this was part of the original route into the Khumbu for expeditions to Everest and other peaks in the area. This option is a good way to avoid the crowds and is perhaps the only good reason to take it, other than as an excellent fitness exercise. This route isn't particularly impressive for scenery and because it crosses rather than follows river valleys, there is an inordinate amount of up and down. One estimate suggests that by the time you reach Lukla you will have accumulated nearly 9,000m of elevation gain, more than climbing Everest from sea level! Take a bus the 184 km to Jiri (1,905m) and on to Shivalaya. Be warned: the bus trip will take most of the day as the road is narrow, twisty and slow.
  • 27.51805686.5844442 Phaplu Phaplu Airport on Wikipedia - is a three or four day walk from Lukla. Its airstrip was extended in 1986 to accommodate twin-engine aircraft. These days it's not used much by trekkers so flights might be easier to find, especially at the last minute.
  • 27.25305686.673 Lamidanda Lamidanda Airport on Wikipedia - five days south of Lukla, offering a mostly unknown alternate way into or out of the Everest region. Tara Air has 40-minute flights from Kathmandu to Lamidanda.
  • 27.786685.89864 Barahbise (aka Bahrabise) Bahrabise on Wikipedia - Finally, if you really want to experience a long trek into the Khumbu, consider starting here, bypassing the road to Jiri. It takes about 6 days to hike from Barahbise (Bahrabise) to Shivalaya through part of Nepal that isn't much visited by trekkers. It would be important to have a guide for this route (or some ability in Nepali) as well as camping equipment because accommodation for trekkers is pretty sparse and even locals might not be able to explain the right direction to you. The route starts at 820 m and rises to cross the Tingsang La (3,320m) and then wanders through high meadows, pastures and forests and eventually to Shivalaya. This is a remote, seldom-used route and we leave it for your research and discovery if such an experience appeals.

Walk

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Map
Map of Island Peak Trek


Lukla to Phakding
 7.5 km 0 m

After arriving at Lukla's Tenzing-Hillary Airport, the path descends toward the Dudh Koshi, a milky-blue river fed by glaciers. The trail follows this river valley, passing through small Sherpa villages, carved Buddhist mani stones, and spinning prayer wheels. The route follows a wide and well-travelled track with some sections of cobbled steps and suspension bridges.

  • 27.74027886.7127781 International Trekkers Guest House, Phakding. Quiet with good views. Phakding on Wikipedia Phakding (Q3901248) on Wikidata


Phakding to Namche Bazaar
 10.8 km 830 m

Continue north on the wide path, which gradually climbs through a series of villages. Upon reaching Monjo and Jorsalle, prepare for the first major ascent of the trek — the climb to Namche Bazaar. The path follows the Dudh Kosi river up to a high, much-photographed suspension bridge, then zigzags up the forested hillside to emerge at the foot of the large bowl in which Namche sits. The climb from the suspension bridge to Namche is just under 600 vertical metres and feels tough due to the altitude. You enter Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo, where permits are checked.

  • 27.80444486.711 Sagarmartha National Park Visitor Centre, Namche Bazaar. Su-F 08:00-16:00. Free. Namche Bazaar here on Wikivoyage Namche Bazaar on Wikipedia Namche Bazaar (Q376123) on Wikidata
  • 27.803486.710972 Namche Market, Namche Bazaar. Friday evenings and Saturdays. Important regional market. OSM directions
  • 27.8038586.711652 Trekkers Inn, Namche Bazaar. One popular lodge out of many in this village. OSM directions


Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
 9.2 km 427 m

Leaving Namche feels like departing civilisation and entering the high Himalayan environment. The path climbs gently out of the village heading north-east, traversing the spectacular hillside with famous views of Ama Dablam, before descending steeply to the Dudh Kosi river at Phunki Tenga. From there, a long climb through pine and rhododendron forests leads to Tengboche Monastery, perched high on a ridge with 360-degree views of Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Thamserku, Lhotse, and the summit of Everest.

  • 27.83611186.7638893 Tengboche Monastery. Largest and most active Monastery in the Khumbu. The Mani Rimdu festival, celebrated during the full moon of October/November, features ritual dances depicting the triumph of Buddhism over Bon. Tengboche on Wikipedia Tengboche (Q1660709) on Wikidata


Tengboche to Dingboche
 10.7 km 550 m

Follow the clear path north-east from Tengboche as it winds gradually down to the Imja Khola river through ancient forests. Cross the river and make the gradual ascent to Pangboche, home to the Khumbu's oldest monastery and a good lunch stop. After lunch, continue on more barren, high-mountain terrain through Shomare to the path junction where the Imja Khola and Khumbu Khola rivers meet, then make the short final climb to Dingboche, which sits beneath the imposing bulk of Ama Dablam.

  • 27.8964486.831474 Nangkartshang Gompa, North of Dingboche. Good views east to Makalu. OSM directions
  • 27.89486.831383 Island Peak View Lodge (Dingboche). OSM directions


Dingboche to Chhukhung
 5 km 320 m

A relatively easy gradual uphill trek of about 2 hours. Above the tree line, the landscape is primarily rock, scree fields, and boulder-strewn meadows with short scrubby bushes. Chhukhung sits in an impressive amphitheater of Himalayan peaks — Ama Dablam, Taboche, Nuptse, Lhotse, and Island Peak — completely surrounding the valley village.

  • 27.9049386.871444 Panorama Lodge (Chhukhung). OSM directions


Chhukhung to Island Peak Base Camp
 5 km 350 m

From Chhukhung the path heads further up the Imja Khola valley, offering breathtaking views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and other Himalayan giants. The trail traverses the rocky terrain of glacial moraines, winding through a starkly beautiful landscape of ice and rock, walled in by some of the world's most massive mountains including the immense south face of Lhotse. Base camp is by the side of the Imja glacier, below steep grassy slopes which mark the start of the climb.


Island Peak Base Camp to High Camp
 2 km 400 m

Base camp to high camp is essentially a hike, but just above high camp some rocky steps require moderate scrambling up through a broad open gully, where glacier travel begins. High camp is situated at around 5,500m, offering a safer and shorter summit day compared to climbing directly from base camp.


High Camp to Summit
 4 km 689 m

From high camp, the ascent begins with a scramble up a rocky gully to a ridge, leading on to the glacier. The route across the glacier is easy-angled but can be crevassed in places. From the bergschrund at the base of the headwall, 100m of snow and ice as steep as 45° is climbed to arrive on the airy summit ridge. The summit of 27.91666786.9333335 Imja Tse Island Peak on Wikipedia at 6,189m offers panoramic views of Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, and Baruntse.


Alternative: Lobuche to Chhukhung via Cho La
 20 km 590 m

This alternative route approaches Chhukhung from the west via the Cho La pass (5,420m), typically used by trekkers coming from the Gokyo valley. In order to cross the pass before the winds set in, it is necessary to start very early. Part of the trail is over ice. From the pass there are views of Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, Makalu, Baruntse, and Ama Dablam, before descending to Chhukhung.

  • 27.93865286.773265 Himalayan View Lodge, Dzongla (on the route from Gokyo to Lobuche east of the Cho La). OSM directions

Stay safe

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Some medical services are available along the trekking route.

  • Lukla and Kunde - small clinics that can provide medical support while waiting for evacuation
  • Namche Bazaar - The Mountain Medical Institute
  • Pheriche - Himalayan Rescue Association Clinic treating locals and trekkers. At 15:00 each day the Clinic gives a talk about altitude sickness and other health issues that you might encounter. Pheriche is between Tengboche and Dingboche.

Altitude sickness is one potentially life-threatening condition that you need to be aware of. Become familiar with the information in this related article.

Water for drinking must be treated in some effective way. Trekking in Nepal has the usual recommendations.

If you happen to sustain minor injuries but are unable to walk, it may be possible to hire a mule or be carried down by a porter. If your condition is more serious or life-threatening, evacuation by helicopter is the only option. Helicopter costs start when the machine leaves Kathmandu so it is entirely possible that such transportation could cost as much as USD10,000. For this reason, you must have travel insurance that covers mountaineering activities and helicopter rescue if required. To put such a rescue into action you would also need a contact in Kathmandu to guarantee payment. This could be the trekking company you are using or possibly your embassy but they will need details of your insurance policy before you leave Kathmandu. Realize that even if everything goes well, a helicopter evacuation could take as much as 24 hours.

Go next

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  • Gokyo - a 9-day out-and-back high altitude trek from Namche Bazaar through a valley west of Everest Base Camp. This is a less crowded route with good views of Everest. It offers views of Cho Oyu and, below it, the Ngozumpa Glacier which is the largest in the Nepal Himalaya. The Ngozumpa Glacier is the subject of some special research because of its rate of melting and the possible risk to villages down valley. It's possible to climb to a ridge above the village of Gokyo and see four 8,000m peaks: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. There is an impressive ice ridge connecting Cho Oyu and Gyachung Kang (7,922 m) that offers one of the most dramatic panoramas in the Khumbu. An alternate route in or out of the Gokyo valley is over the 5,420 m Cho La, a high pass connecting west into the Khumbu.
  • Numbur Cheese Circuit - a 14-day trek that starts at Shivalaya, the alternate route to Lukla


This itinerary to Island Peak Trek is a usable article. It explains how to get there and touches on all the major points along the way. An adventurous person could use this article, but please feel free to improve it by editing the page.


Imja Tse
Island Peak


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