Understand
[edit]Trails have existed over Snoqualmie Pass for centuries, as it was well-known to the Native Americans living in the Snoqualmie and Yakima valleys. In the 1850s, American settlers were looking for better ways to cross the Cascades into Puget Sound, and quickly identified the pass as the superior route for pack trains and wagons. The first road was constructed in 1867, and incrementally improved over the next century.
Logging has occurred throughout the region since the 1880s and a major lumber mill operated in the town of Snoqualmie from 1917 to 2003. Coal mining became a major industry east of the mountains in Roslyn and Cle Elum.
When the interstate was built in 1969, crossing the pass became easy. Today, millions of vehicles go over the pass every year, making this route Seattle's most vital link to the rest of the country.
Since 1991, The Mountains to Sound Greenway Trust has acted to protect the landscape surrounding I-90 from Seattle to Ellensburg.
Prepare
[edit]Driving is the best way to experience this itinerary. You can access most points of interest between Seattle and North Bend via local buses, but once in the mountains, public transit is sparse and does not make stops.
The Palouse to Cascades Trail is a popular cycling path that parallels this itinerary from North Bend eastward. This former railroad grade along the south side of I-90 is now a gravel multi-use trail. A section of the route is through a long tunnel, so bring bright lighting.
I-90 stays open during the winter, but sometimes closes during storms or for avalanche control. Check the Washington State Department of Transportation for winter travel information.
The weather is best in the summer. Puget Sound and areas west of the Cascades experience frequent cloud cover and drizzle in the winter and spring, putting a damper on scenery and making trails wet, muddy, and slippery. Snoqualmie Pass is typically not snow-free until May, and snow persists well into the summer at higher elevations. The eastern slope of the Cascades gets hot in the summer, but the mountains from Cle Elum westward stay at high enough elevation to avoid extreme heat.
Fees and permits
[edit]Some stops along the route are in Washington State Parks, or are managed by the Washington Department of Natural Resources (DNR). State Parks and DNR lands require a pass to park at. The Discover Pass is $10 a day, or $30 a year. Order online, buy from an outdoors retailer, or pick up from a kiosk at the entrance to the more popular state parks.
Most other trailheads in the Cascades are regulated by the U.S. Forest Service. You're free to get out and look around for a few minutes, but if you plan to hike or camp, you need a federal parking pass on each vehicle. You can pick up a pass at any ranger station or National Park Service visitor center.
- United States Interagency Annual Pass ($80 online, valid for unlimited use at all United States National Parks, National Forests, and National Monuments for one year)
- Northwest Forest Pass ($30 online, valid for unlimited use at all United States National Forests in the states of Washington and Oregon for one year)
- National Forest Recreation Day Pass ($5 online and valid on one self-selected day only).
Get in
[edit]1 Seattle is the western terminus of this itinerary. There are many ways to get into Seattle, and they all apply here. Many of them even use this route!
2 Ellensburg is the eastern terminus of this itinerary.
By plane
[edit]Seattle-Tacoma International Airport is the closest major airport to this route. From the east, Wenatchee and Yakima serve limited regional routes, and Spokane connects to some cities in the western US.
By car
[edit]Interstate 90 starts in Seattle, along Interstate 5 just south of downtown. The only local exit is Rainier Avenue, before crossing Lake Washington (and Mercer Island) to Bellevue, Issaquah, and further east.
Interstate 90 crosses Washington from the east all the way to the Idaho border. It connects to Interstate 82 just one mile east of Ellensburg.
By bus
[edit]Seattle is a major city, a stop on nearly all regional and long-haul routes in this part of the country.
King County Metro operates local bus routes in King County, as far east as North Bend. During ski season, charter buses run between Seattle and Snoqualmie Pass.
Ellensburg is also well-connected on regional and long-haul routes, as it is a college town at the junction of two interstates, and an easy stop for westbound buses to Seattle.
Ellensburg does not have any local bus service along this route. Unfortunately, buses crossing the route make no stops between Ellensburg and Bellevue or Seattle.
Drive
[edit]
This itinerary is written from Seattle eastward. You can of course start in Ellensburg and proceed the other direction. It is one-way, so at the end you can backtrack or make a loop with one of the other mountain pass highways.
This itinerary focuses on natural scenery, small towns, and easy hikes. It skips over a lot of good "city stuff" around Seattle. Feel free to start the itinerary at Bellevue or Issaquah, or cut out early at Cle Elum or US-97 to Blewett Pass. For more strenuous or ambitious outdoor recreation, look for more comprehensive information in the city articles along the route.
You can drive the interstate without stopping in about an hour and a half, like most travelers do, watching the dramatic terrain unfold at 70 miles per hour. You can also spend season after season here, like many locals do, exploring all the trails, lakes, campsites, and mountains accessible from the route.
Issaquah Alps
[edit]From 
I-5 in Seattle, take 
I-90 East, towards Bellevue and Spokane.
Despite being one of the major interstates originally planned in the 1950s, this westernmost stretch of I-90, linking Seattle to its largest suburb, was not completed until 1990. Locals believe it to be (citation needed) the most expensive 10-mile stretch of interstate in the entire federal highway system. Getting out of Seattle required a series of half-mile tunnels, and two of the longest floating bridges in the world across Lake Washington, one of which failed almost immediately after opening.
After the I-405 interchange at Bellevue, you already have access to the foothills. The Issaquah Alps, immediately to your south, include three primary peaks: Cougar Mountain, Squak Mountain, and Tiger Mountain. Each of these mountains hosts an interconnected network of trails, making this the easiest escape for Seattleites needing to sneak in a post-work hike on a sunny afternoon. These mountains get taller and steeper as you drive east; Cougar Mountain has the easiest trails with the least elevation gain, while Tiger Mountain has some respectably strenuous hikes that mountain climbers frequently use for off-season conditioning.
To your north is Lake Sammamish, a popular lake for boaters looking for something calmer than the bustling Lake Washington.
The last suburb along the freeway is 3 Issaquah. At Exit 17, you can make a quick detour south to explore the historic main street, with great post-hike dining options. After here, the sprawl abruptly ends, the highway begins to climb, and you are thrust into dense forest that continues nearly unbroken for the next 60 miles.
- 1 Cougar Mountain Regional Wildland Park (Exit 13. Drive south on Lakemont Blvd SE for 3.1 miles; look for the entrance to the Red Town Trailhead on the left side of the road). A 3000-acre park with 36 miles of hiking trails (12 miles suitable for equestrian use), showcasing forests and waterfalls to meadows and cliffs. There are four primary trailheads. Recommended hikes: Coal Creek Falls (2.5 miles roundtrip, 416 feet elevation gain). Free.
- 2 Lake Sammamish State Park, 2000 NW Sammamish State Park (Exit 15. Follow the signs), ☏ +1 425 455-7010. Summer: 6:30AM to dusk. Winter: 6:30AM to dusk for the main park and boat launch. A 512-acre day-use park with 6,858 feet of waterfront on Lake Sammamish. The area around the lake was an important culture zone for local Native American tribes for centuries. The park provides deciduous forest and wetland vegetation, a salmon-bearing creek and a great-blue-heron rookery. The park has one of the largest freshwater beaches in the greater Seattle area. Discover Pass required for vehicles.
- 1 REI (Recreation Equipment Inc.), 735 NW Gilman Blvd, Issaquah, WA 98027 (Exit 15. Turn onto Gilman Blvd., then take a right into the second shopping center between Maple St. and 7th Ave.). The largest outdoors gear retailer along this itinerary. They also sell the various parking passes needed for state and federal parks.
- 3 Squak Mountain State Park (Exit 17. Head south on Front Street, which turns into Issaquah-Hobart Road; drive 4.5 miles, then turn right on S.E. May Valley Road; drive 1.5 miles, and turn right into the park). 6:30PM to dusk. There are 13 miles of hiking trails, 6 miles of which are suitable for equestrian use. The least busy of the three main Issaquah Alps. Recommended hikes: May Valley Loop through Bullitt Fireplace and the summit (6.6 miles roundtrip, 1,684 feet elevation gain). Discover Pass required for vehicles.
- 4 Tiger Mountain State Forest (Exit 20. Turn right on 270th Ave SE; turn right on SE 79th Street; drive through the gate, onto the gravel road and into the parking lot). Encompasses 4,430 acres that range in elevation from 470 feet above sea level at Tradition Plateau to 2,948 feet at the summit of West Tiger Peak 1, the highest of three peaks within the natural area. The City of Issaquah owns most of the Tradition Plateau that is adjacent to the NRCA. Recommended hikes: Chirico Trail to Poo Poo Point (3.8 miles roundtrip, 1,760 feet elevation gain), West Tiger #3 Trail (5 miles roundtrip, 2,100 feet elevation gain). Discover Pass required for vehicles.
Snoqualmie Valley
[edit]For this next section, the best sights are along the Sunset Highway, the original road that the interstate shortcuts. Feel free to instead continue on I-90 if you're looking to spend your time deeper in the mountains.
From I-90, take Exit 25 onto 
WA-18 East. Turn left onto Snoqualmie Parkway. In 4 miles at the T, turn left onto 
WA-202 North. Cross the bridge and find parking for Snoqualmie Falls.
At 270 feet tall, Snoqualmie Falls is one of the largest, most accessible, and most dramatic waterfalls in western Washington. A short trail from the parking area leads to an observation deck. The width and volume of the falls widely varies based on recent weather; if you had to cancel your hike due to rain the day before, then treat yourself to the show here! The land and surrounding concessions are owned by the Snoqualmie Indian Tribe.
Turn around, onto WA-202 South, towards Snoqualmie and North Bend.
Drive through the town of 4 Snoqualmie 
, one of the first logging towns in Washington. It was also an important stop along the railroad, the junction where a westbound train would turn towards either of the competing ports of Seattle or Tacoma. Just south of town, the Northwest Railway Museum preserves the old depot with a large collection of locomotives, as well as a 5-mile heritage railroad offering rides on weekends.
In three miles, arrive at 5 North Bend. This town became famous in the early 1990's, as the setting and primary filming location for David Lynch's cult-classic television series Twin Peaks. Fans of the show will have already recognized a few filming locations along this itinerary, but this town and the mountains surrounding it will be immediately familiar. The diner appearing in nearly every episode is now Twede's Cafe, which has preserved its look and feel from the show.
In downtown North Bend, turn left onto North Bend Way. Continue 4 miles until the junction with I-90.
You may be looking for the "twin peaks". In reality, there is only one; the steep crag you spotted first is Mount Si, rising nearly 4,000 feet above the valley floor. This is a favorite among Seattle-area hikers, for its heavily-forested workout to an expansive view of Seattle and the surrounding region. To the south, the other hugely-popular hike from North Bend is Rattlesnake Ledge, also steep but with the best effort-to-reward ratio for a Puget Sound panorama. For a relaxing stroll, the west trailhead of Olallie State Park leads to Twin Falls, a pleasant series of small waterfalls in the thick lowland forest.
- 1 Snoqualmie Falls (Exit 25. Turn left onto Snoqualmie Parkway. In 4 miles at the T, turn left onto WA-202 N. Cross the bridge and find parking). 270 foot waterfall, with two viewing locations. A short trail from the parking area leads to an observation deck. The width and volume of the falls widely varies based on recent weather. The land and surrounding concessions are owned by the Snoqualmie Indian Tribe. Free.
- 2 Northwest Railway Museum (Exit 27. Turn left on 394th.). Old rail depot with a large collection of locomotives, as well as a 5-mile heritage railroad offering rides on weekends.
- 1 Twede's Cafe, 137 W North Bend Way, North Bend (Exit 31, turn north into North Bend. At the intersection of Bendigo Blvd and North Bend Way). 9AM-7PM. Filming location for the cult-classic Twin Peaks series, today serves up traditional diner fare.
- 1 Snoqualmie Ranger District - North Bend Office, 902 SE North Bend Way, North Bend (Exit 31, turn north into North Bend. Turn right onto North Bend Way. Continue for about 1 mile). Purchase federal parking passes here, or ask a ranger for any advice or recommendations on outdoor recreation along this itinerary.
- 5 Mount Si Trailhead (Exit 32. North on 436th, left onto North Bend Way, then a quick right onto Mount Si Rd. Continue 2.5 miles to a large gravel parking lot). 8 miles roundtrip, 3,200 feet elevation gain. This is a favorite among area hikers, for a heavily-forested workout to an expansive view of Seattle and the Puget Sound region. Discover Pass required for vehicles.
- 6 Rattlesnake Ledge Trailhead (also called Rattlesnake Ridge) (Exit 32. South to Cedar Falls Rd. Continue 4 miles to parking lot). 4 miles roundtrip, 1,160 feet elevation gain. The best effort-to-reward hike for views of Seattle and Puget Sound. Discover Pass required for vehicles.
- 7 Olallie State Park - Twin Falls Trailhead (Exit 32. South on 468th Ave SE, 0.5 mile to SE 159th St. Turn left and continue another 0.5 mile to parking lot). 2.4 miles roundtrip, 940 feet elevation gain. A pleasant series of small waterfalls in the thick lowland forest. Discover Pass required for vehicles.
West Slope Cascades
[edit]When North Bend Way meets I-90 at Exit 34, take I-90 East, towards Spokane.
From North Bend, the real mountains begin. I-90 runs along an approximate geological boundary within the Cascade Range. To the south, the landscape of the Cascades is dominated by extrusive rock - materials deposited by volcanoes, over the past 37 million years. The terrain is a little bit softer and rolling, save for the massive active volcanoes. The next river valley to your south is the primary watershed for Seattle, and recreational access is restricted past the ridge.
Exit 38 is the major gateway to exploring the ridge south of here. The road continues for several miles along the South Fork Snoqualmie River, with a variety of campgrounds and dispersed camping. The trails here make use of the Palouse to Cascades Trail, an old railroad grade converted into a gravel multi-use path that stretches the rest of the way across the state. The path is popular for bikes, as the grade is gentle, the path is kept in great condition, and many of the offshoot trails are conducive to mountain biking. This section of the path is also popular for rock climbers, as it provides easy access to the best rock within an hour of Seattle. A passenger in your car may be able to spot someone dangling from a rope on the exposed cliff faces on each side of the highway.
To the north, the landscape increasingly exposes intrusive rock - volcanic material that solidified underground. This harder rock leads to bare alpine terrain, littered with jagged peaks and small lakes. These peaks and lakes make for excellent climbing, hiking, and camping. In 1976, they came to be protected as the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. The closest such alpine lake to the interstate, Talapus Lake is off of Exit 45. It is a two hour roundtrip hike, which also connects to a series of other alpine lakes for a full day. Looking upon these lakes, you can easily see how massive glaciers carved out the U-shaped valleys as they flowed down from nearby peaks, leaving piles of rocky rubble beneath scoured cliffs.
Exit 47 leads to two easy hikes with great water features. A two mile roundtrip easy hike takes you to Franklin Falls, a 135 foot waterfall literally underneath an I-90 overpass. Most people drive right over it without even seeing it. In the other direction, a different two mile roundtrip hike leads to Denny Creek, where cool water flows across a wide granite slab, creating something of a waterslide. This creek crossing is a great spot to play in the water and have a picnic on a hot summer day.
- 8 Talapus Lake Trailhead (Exit 45. Drive north on FR 9030 for 1 mile, follow the road to the right of the junction, continue to the trailhead). Federal pass (NW Forest Pass or Interagency Pass) required for vehicles.
- 9 Denny Creek Trailhead (Exit 47. Turn over to the north side of the freeway, then turn right onto Forest Road 58. Continue 3 miles to the trailhead). Federal pass (NW Forest Pass or Interagency Pass) required for vehicles.
- 10 Franklin Falls Trailhead (Exit 47. Turn over to the north side of the freeway, then turn right onto Forest Road 58. Continue 3 miles to the trailhead). Federal pass (NW Forest Pass or Interagency Pass) required for vehicles.
Snoqualmie Pass
[edit]The interstate bends around a steep ridge, and then crests with the abrupt Exit 52 to an expansive ski resort. 2 Snoqualmie Pass, at 3,015 feet, is Seattle's closest access to winter recreation. The Summit at Snoqualmie resort consists of four areas. On the south ridge, Summit West and Summit Central has the most beginner-friendly green runs, Summit East has predominately moderate blue runs. On the north ridge, Alpental has mostly expert-level black runs, as well as substantial out-of-bounds backcountry terrain.
In the summer, the pass is where the Pacific Crest Trail intersects with the freeway. Constructing the trail north of the pass required substantial blasting of the rock, creating the narrow Kendall Katwalk cut into the steep cliffs, about four miles down the trail (eight miles roundtrip).
Exit 54 leads to Hyak, the original name for Summit East. If you're looking for a relaxing place to stretch your legs, follow the road north of the freeway to Gold Creek Pond, a one mile loop for all seasons around a calm pond with views deep into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. If you're looking for something different, follow the road south to the Palouse to Cascades Trail parking lot, grab a headlamp, then walk a quarter-mile west to the Cascade Tunnel. This 2.3 mile long tunnel, originally for the railroad, is now a damp and pitch-black multi-use trail underneath the pass.
As you leave the ski area, the interstate follows the shore of Lake Keechelus, the source of the Yakima River. Although it is a natural lake, its water makes up one of the primary reservoirs for the Yakima Valley, one of Washington's agricultural heartlands. Just after the lake, a hulking overpass looms ahead. What kind of traffic does this overbuilt bridge carry? The Keechelus Wildlife Overcrossing allows wildlife to cross the road! Tall fences along this stretch funnel animals to various underpasses, as well as this overpass, to allow safer movement and migration of both creatures and people.
- 11 PCT North (Kendall Katwalk) Trailhead (Exit 52. Turn north from the freeway onto Alpental Rd. Take the first right). The Pacific Crest Trail extends all the way to Canada and Mexico. Building the trail north of the pass required substantial blasting of the rock, creating the narrow Kendall Katwalk cut into the steep cliffs, about four miles down the trail (8 miles roundtrip, 2,600 feet elevation gain). Federal pass (NW Forest Pass or Interagency Pass) required for vehicles.
- 12 Gold Creek Pond Trailhead (Exit 54. Go north of the freeway, turn right onto FR 4832, and drive east for 1 mile. Turn left on Gold Creek Rd (142). Turn left in 0.3 mile into the parking lot). 1 mile roundtrip, 10 feet elevation gain. A loop around a calm pond with views deep into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Federal pass (NW Forest Pass or Interagency Pass) required for vehicles.
- 13 Palouse to Cascades State Park - Cascade Tunnel (previously Iron Horse State Park, John Wayne Trail) (Exit 54. Turn south from the freeway, then immediately turn left at the stop sign onto WA-906. In 0.5 miles, turn right at the sign). May–Oct. Multi-use trail extending from North Bend to Idaho. This entrance is near a repurposed railroad tunnel that cuts under the pass. The 2.3-mile tunnel rarely climbs over 50°F (10°C), making it a welcome respite from summer heat. Bring a headlamp (or two, just in case), as the tunnel is completely unlit. Discover Pass required for vehicles.
- 3 Keechelus Wildlife Overcrossing (between Lake Keechelus and Exit 62). This hulking overpass allows wildlife to cross the road. Tall fences along this stretch funnel animals to various underpasses, as well as this overpass, to allow safer movement and migration of both creatures and people.
East Slope Cascades
[edit]East of the Cascade crest, the forest slowly starts to shift towards the drier conditions of the east. The ever-adaptable Douglas Fir is still the most common tree, but the Western Redcedar and Western Hemlock and dense underbrush give way to Ponderosa Pine and a less dense ground cover. In autumn, you may even spot groves of golden orange Western Larch, one of the only conifers (cone-bearing trees with needles) that is also deciduous (loses its leaves in the winter).
Exit 80 leads to 6 Roslyn , the other mountain town along this route used as a setting for a 90's TV series, this time the sitcom Northern Exposure. This coal-mining company town retained its charm through the years, enough to remain an occasional filming location. WA-903 through Roslyn continues along Cle Elum Lake to a variety of campgrounds and trailheads into the heart of the Cascades, the furthest in from the interstate you can drive without a high-clearance vehicle.
7 Cle Elum is the first full-service town east of the pass. The main street features two longstanding meat markets, Glondo's Sausage and Owens Meats. Both markets distribute their cured meats regionally. Frequent visitors form strong opinions as to which one is better. Try something from each and form your own opinion.
The region of rolling hills behind Cle Elum is The Teanaway, dominated by sandstones that are relatively uncommon elsewhere in the volcanic Cascades. From the right angle, you can look past the hills and far on the horizon, to see a crown of jagged rock. Mount Stuart is the second-tallest non-volcanic mountain in the state, at the western edge of The Enchantments, one of Washington's premier hiking and climbing destinations.
The interstate enters a canyon along the Yakima River, then emerges into the Kittitas Valley. From here, the landscape takes on a decidedly agricultural feel, with fields of hay and alfalfa. The Thorp Fruit and Antique Mall off of Exit 101 sells the wide range of fruits and produce cultivated in Central Washington during the summer months. This part of Washington is famous for cherries, asparagus, wine, and especially apples.
The designated scenic byway ends here, but continue just a few more miles to Ellensburg. This small city at the junction of I-90 and I-82 has a split personality, part cowboy town and part college town. The exits along the interstate have all the chains that you'd expect, but the main street has a wider variety of dining options than you'd expect, owing to the tastes of Central Washington University students. Take a break here, then head off in any cardinal direction; Ellensburg is well-connected to the other mountain passes and to the eastern part of the state.
- 3 Cle Elum Ranger District, 803 W 2nd St, Cle Elum (Exit 84. Turn left on Douglas Munro Blvd, right on FS 4517). Purchase federal parking passes here, or ask a ranger for any advice or recommendations on outdoor recreation along this itinerary.
- 2 Glondo's Sausage, 216 E 1st St, Cle Elum (Exit 84. Follow 1st St through town).
- 3 Owens Meats, 502 E 1st St, Cle Elum (Exit 84. Follow 1st St through town).
- 4 Thorp Fruit and Antique Mall, 220 Gladmar Rd, Thorp (Exit 101).
Stay safe
[edit]The Cascades are habitat for black bears. There have been fewer than a dozen bear attacks in Washington in the last century, but hikers need to know about bear safety. Ask a park ranger for local advice.
Go next
[edit]To make this a round trip, take a different highway back across the Cascades:
- To the north, Stevens Pass Highway (US-2) or North Cascades Highway (WA-20), both part of the North Cascade Loop
- To the south, Chinook Pass (WA-410) through Mount Rainier National Park or White Pass (US-12) along Rimrock Lake
Ellensburg is your gateway to the Columbia River Plateau:
- Yakima Valley — where the hops in your favorite beer probably came from
- Richland and the Tri-Cities — with a pivotal role in nuclear history
- Grand Coulee Dam — the largest hydroelectric producer in the country
- Spokane — the hub of the "Inland Empire"
Seattle has natural wonder in all directions:
- Olympic National Park — Washington's wild coast
- San Juan Islands — the immersive Salish Sea experience
Vancouver, Seattle's Canadian neighbor to the north, has its own share of scenic drives:
- Whistler via the Sea-to-Sky Highway — up a pristine fjord to an Olympic-class ski resort
- Trans-Canada Highway — through the Coastal Range (and almost everywhere else in Canada)