The North Cascades Loop is a beautiful 440-mile driving itinerary in the North Cascades of Washington. This loop, a National Scenic Byway, showcases the spectacular and diverse scenery of northwestern Washington, with its pristine mountains, grand rivers, picturesque islands, and rolling river valleys.
Understand
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This route generally follows WA-525 across Whidbey Island, the North Cascades Highway (WA-20) through North Cascades National Park, US-97 along the Columbia River Gorge, and the Stevens Pass Highway (US-2) back across the Cascade Mountains.
The long and narrow Whidbey Island, the largest island along the West Coast of the US, shows you a different side of the Washington coast, without the development of the Seattle area but still easily accessible from it. The historical chokepoint for maritime access into Puget Sound, the island retains much of its history, small-town charm, and natural seascapes.
The Skagit River is the largest watershed emptying into Puget Sound. In spite of three dams, the Skagit supports all five species of Pacific salmon and two anadromous (or sea-going) trout.
Abundant rain and mild winters provide the perfect environment for trees in the Pacific Northwest to grow large. The old giants are long gone in most of the Northwest, but in the wilds of the North Cascades you can still find groves of old-growth that have never been cut.
The North Cascade Mountains are still rising, shifting and forming. Unlike the rest of the Cascade Range, these mountains are a collage of terranes, distinct assemblages of rock, likely formed thousands of miles south as prehistoric island arcs (think Japan and Indonesia) in the Pacific Ocean. Colliding with the North American Continent, the drifting rock masses were thrust upwards and faulted laterally into a jumbled array of mountains. The north-south trending faults are still evident today. The North Cascades boast over 300 glaciers and countless snowfields, making them the most heavily-glaciated area in the United States outside of Alaska (more than Glacier National Park!).
The mighty Columbia River is the largest river system in the western US. The unique setting of the river is due to floods of molten basalt from what is now the Yellowstone Hot Spot, followed by repeated mass floods at the end of the last ice age, when the collapse of huge ice dams near Missoula, Montana unleashed walls of water over 1000 feet high, carving distinctive canyons locally known as coulees. Today, the soils in the canyons and valleys where the plateau meets the foothills are the most productive anywhere, and are the source of Washington's most famous agricultural exports.
Prepare
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Driving is the only way to experience this loop. Public transit is sparse and does not stop at natural points of interest. All roads on this route are paved and well-maintained. You could cycle across much of the route if sufficiently motivated, but this is rarely done over Stevens Pass, as the highway is steep, narrow, and high-traffic. Consider the Palouse to Cascades Trail across Snoqualmie Pass instead.
The North Cascades Highway closes in the winter, from approximately November to May. While the areas on either side of the closure still offer plenty to see in the winter, you will not be able to complete the loop. Stevens Pass Highway remains open, but sometimes closes during storms or for avalanche control. Check the Washington State Department of Transportation for winter travel information.
The weather is best in the summer. Puget Sound and areas west of the Cascades experience frequent cloud cover and drizzle outside of summer, which could put a damper on scenic vistas and idyllic hikes. The eastern slope the Cascades gets hot in the summer, but this route mostly stays at high enough elevation to avoid extreme heat.
If you only intend to cross the Cascades one-way and must choose only one of the mountain highways, the North Cascades Highway is regarded as more scenic and wild, but is also slower and further away from other regional destinations.
Lodging
[edit]While the 440-mile loop can be driven within a day, that would not leave any time for stops. Two days will allow enough time to enjoy scenery and briefly walk around each of the stops. Three or more days will allow you to go on an extended hike or experience the other outdoor recreation opportunities.
The best towns to stop in for a night are La Conner, Winthrop and Leavenworth, as they have a lot of charm and places to eat. Anacortes, Burlington, Chelan, and Wenatchee are also larger towns with many lodging options available. You should also consider a more rustic motel or cabin in the foothills of the two mountain highways.
There is ample camping along the mountain highways. These need to be reserved in advance in North Cascades National Park, or on busy summer weekends.
Fees and permits
[edit]Washington State Ferries charge a toll for transit. Pay at the booth as you drive up. You can avoid the ferry (and Whidbey Island) by shortcutting through Interstate 5 between Everett and Burlington.
Many of the stops along the route are in Washington State Parks. State Parks require a pass to access. The Discover Pass is $10 a day, or $30 a year. You can pick up a pass at the entrance to most larger state parks.
North Cascades National Park is free to enter and explore. However, most of the other trailheads in the Cascades are regulated by the U.S. Forest Service. You're free to get out and look for a few minutes, but if you plan to hike, you need a federal parking pass on each vehicle. You can pick up a pass at any ranger station or park visitor center.
- United States Interagency Annual Pass ($80 online, valid for unlimited use at all United States National Parks, National Forests, and National Monuments for one year)
- Northwest Forest Pass ($30 online, valid for unlimited use at all United States National Forests in the states of Washington and Oregon for one year)
- National Forest Recreation Day Pass ($5 online and valid on one self-selected day only).
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]The closest major airports to the route are Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, about 45 minutes south of Everett, and Vancouver International Airport about one hour and fifteen minutes from Burlington (in the Skagit Valley). Bellingham and Everett have regional airports with service to other western states. Wenatchee has three flights from Seattle-Tacoma.
By car
[edit]From Seattle, take I-5 north to Everett, and begin the loop from there.
From Vancouver, take BC-99 and I-5 south to Burlington.
From Eastern Washington, including Spokane, take US-2 (or I-90 and US-97) to join the loop at Wenatchee.
By train
[edit]Amtrak Cascades serves Everett and Mount Vernon. Amtrak's Empire Builder serves Wenatchee, Leavenworth and Everett.
Drive
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This itinerary describes the route as starting from 1 Everett, then going clockwise. Feel free to start from anywhere along the route, and go in any direction.
If coming from Seattle or other points south, you can also instead start at 2 Mukilteo, by taking Interstate 5 north to WA-525 at Lynnwood.
The loop has been divided into four main sections, each side of the roughly-rectangular route.
Whidbey Island
[edit]From Everett, take 
WA-526 West to the Mukilteo Ferry Terminal. Catch the next ferry to Clinton (a ferry runs about once an hour).
Washington State Ferries is the largest ferry system in the country. Most routes crisscross Puget Sound, shortcutting a long drive south through the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, and providing vital mainland access to the larger islands in the sound, as the Mukilteo-Clinton Ferry does. If you need to wait for the next sailing, stroll the Mukilteo waterfront. Return to your car as soon as you see the ferry docking up - once you see cars unload, you only have a few minutes until it's your turn to board!
Once underway, explore the boat, including the outside upper deck. If you're lucky, you might see whales or porpoises as you cross Possession Sound.
From Clinton Ferry Terminal, continue onto 
WA-525 North.
Arrive in 3 Clinton, at the foot of Whidbey Island. Long and narrow, it is the largest island along the US West Coast. The main road running along the spine of the island passes through pastoral countryside and cute little towns such as Langley and Coupeville.
Explore 1 Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve to see the Admiralty Head Lighthouse and walk the beach. Admiralty Inlet, to the west, is the chokepoint for shipping into Puget Sound. This made the inlet critical to defend in pre-modern times, leading to the construction of a series of artillery forts. If you're at all interested in military history, visit 2 Fort Casey State Park 
and 3 Fort Ebey State Park .
At Keystone, WA-525 becomes 
WA-20.
At the north end of the island is the beautiful 4 Deception Pass State Park, with beaches, freshwater lakes and trails. Stop at the parking lot just before the Deception Pass Bridge, and stroll across the bridge's walkway. This bridge was built by the Civilian Conservation Corp during the Great Depression, and has since become a National Historic Monument. Look down into the water; if the tide is flowing, you may see the standing waves, large whirlpools, and roiling eddies that make this passage treacherous for sailors.
Drive across the bridge, onto to Fidalgo Island. Detour a few minutes to 4 Anacortes, a working harbor town and a major ferry terminal. If you have the time, an orca whale watching tour makes for a great day, and catching the ferry to the San Juan Islands makes for a wonderful overnight trip.
North Cascades Highway
[edit]From Anacortes, take WA-20 East.
Cross the Swinomish Channel to the mainland, and enter the Skagit Valley. This fertile valley is famous for its tulips and claims to grow more of these flowers than Holland. If visiting during the spring, give yourself extra time to explore the Tulip Festival and the vibrant colors in the surrounding farmlands. The colorful town of 5 La Conner, a couple minutes off the highway, has several blocks of waterfront dining, galleries, and boutique stores.
WA-20 crosses over Interstate 5 at Burlington, where it becomes the North Cascades Highway. After Sedro-Woolley the Skagit Valley narrows, the fields give way to dense forest, and the imposing Cascade Mountains come into view. Concrete and Marblemount are the last towns of any size until after the mountains, so make a pitstop if you're hungry or running low on fuel.
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Arrive at the entrance to North Cascades National Park at Newhalem. This underrated park protects the most remote and rugged terrain of the entire Cascade Range. A visit to the 5 North Cascades Visitor Center will tip you off to the dramatic scenery that lies ahead. Let a ranger help you choose from the overwhelming number of trails, for whatever your time and energy allows. From here, drive along a number of scenic lookouts, including 6 Gorge Creek Falls, the emerald-green 7 Diablo Lake, and crystalline 8 Ross Lake. The highway climbs up to 9 Rainy Pass, a wonderful viewpoint and a popular trailhead for the Pacific Crest Trail. The road ascends even higher up to 10 Washington Pass, the highest point on this loop at 5477 feet. Leaving the park, the highway finds the Methow River, and descends into the Methow Valley. Mazama, just off the highway, is a popular rock climbing destination.
Stretch your legs in 6 Winthrop, a cute town that still retains the flavor of the Old West frontier. Winthrop is a premier spot for cross country skiing, with one of the world's largest network of ski trails. Continue down the valley, out of the mountains and towards the Columbia River.
2 miles southeast of Twisp, continue straight onto 
WA-153 South.
Columbia River
[edit]At Pateros, turn right onto 
US-97 South.
At 7 Pateros, the Methow River flows into the Columbia River. You've reached the edge of the Columbia River Plateau, where an ancient flood of molten basalt covered much of Eastern Washington, and then was carved up by the most grand river of the Pacific Northwest. Dams along this river, including the Wells Dam along this route, provide most of the irrigation and electricity for Eastern Washington.
13 miles south of Pateros, turn right onto US 97-A South, towards Chelan.
Arrive at the lake resort town of 8 Chelan. Lake Chelan is one of the deepest lakes in the US, and extends 50 miles into the mountains. Private ferries sail all the way up the lake to the remote village of Stehekin in the Lake Chelan National Recreation Area, a popular and worthwhile trip if you have a day to spare.
You may have noticed the orchards in the Columbia Gorge. These are the source of Washington's famous apples, exported around the world. If you come across a fruit stand that's open, make a stop and snack on whatever is in season.
9 Wenatchee bills itself "Apple Capital of the World". The 11 Wenatchee Valley Museum has great exhibits on the history of the apple industry, and an 11 mile loop trail skirts both sides of the Columbia River. If you're becoming wary of driving, take a calming break at the 12 Ohme Gardens.
Stevens Pass Highway
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From Wenatchee, take 
US-2 West, the Stevens Pass Highway.
As you drive through the Wenatchee Valley, you will see more of apple orchards this region is famous for. At Cashmere, stop for a tour of the 1 Aplets & Cotlets Candy Kitchen, where they turn these fruits into delectable treats.
A few miles west, cross into "Bavaria" at the village of 10 Leavenworth. This mountain town noticed how its steep mountain relief resembled the European Alps, and reinvented itself into the top mountain getaway for Pacific Northwest residents. Enjoy a meal of hearty German fare, and consider making it a base for rafting the Wenatchee River or hiking The Enchantments.
Continue west through the beautiful Tumwater Canyon to Coles Corner. You can turn off to relax at pristine 2 Lake Wenatchee State Park, or continue on to 3 Stevens Pass, at 4061 feet, a major ski resort and another trailhead to the Pacific Crest Trail. This was, and remains, a crucial rail route through the Cascades. If you're interested in the railroad, the 13 Wellington Townsite is the best interpretive site on the topic.
The highway quickly descends into the Skykomish Valley. Take a brief stop to see 14 Deception Falls, then enjoy the dramatic relief of the surrounding mountains, featuring the jagged Mount Index. At the town of Gold Bar, stop for a quick hike at 4 Wallace Falls State Park to see the 265-foot waterfall.
By Sultan, the mountains mellow out into the foothills of the Puget Sound and the agricultural Snohomish River floodplain. Monroe is the home to the Evergreen State Fair in August and September. You can turn off here to Seattle, or continue on WA-2. If you still have any shopping left to do, 11 Snohomish is the regional center for antiques and agrotourism. The highway ends at Interstate 5 in Everett, completing the loop.
Eat
[edit]Stay safe
[edit]On the North Cascades Highway, there are no gas or services for 70 miles between Marblemount and Mazama.
On the North Cascades Highway, there is poor or no cell phone coverage from Ross Lake to Mazama. If you need assistance, you'll have to flag someone down. Coverage is also spotty near Stevens Pass.
Go next
[edit]Seattle and Vancouver are the major cities near this route.
For more time on the coast:
- San Juan Islands, the most immersive Salish Sea experience, can be reached by ferry from Anacortes.
- Olympic National Park, Washington's wildest space, can be reached from Whidbey Island or Seattle via ferry.
- Victoria, an island city with British charm.
For more time in the mountains:
- Mount Baker ski resort, with the world record for largest snowfall.
- Whistler via the Sea-to-Sky Highway, up a pristine fjord to an Olympic-class ski resort.
- Mountains to Sound Greenway, the next mountain pass to the south.
- Trans-Canada Highway, the next mountain pass to the north.
- Mount Rainier National Park, the most imposing volcano in the continguous United States.
For more time on the river:
- Richland and the Tri-Cities, with a pivotal role in nuclear history.
- Grand Coulee Dam, the largest hydroelectric producer in the country.
- Yakima Valley, where the hops in your favorite beer probably came from.