North Ronaldsay Voyage Tips and guide

Contents

North Ronaldsay is the most northerly of the Orkney Islands of Scotland. It's 3 miles long by a mile wide, low-lying, and in 2011 had a population of 72. It's named for Rögnvald Kali Kolsson or St Ronald (1100-1158), who was Earl of Orkney and founder of St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. South Ronaldsay is also named for him so he book-ends the Orkney archipelago.

59°22′12″N 2°24′36″W

Map of North Ronaldsay

Orkney Ferries sail from Kirkwall. May-Sep they sail twice a week: on Saturday direct taking 2 hr 40 min, on Tuesdays either the outward or return sailing is via Papa Westray and takes an hour longer. They sail once a week in winter. Return fares until April 2025 are adult £11.90, conc £8.90, child £5.90, and car (which few visitors need) £28.10.

59.3556-2.4411 Hollandstoun pier is the landing point for ferries. There's a waiting room with toilets.

Loganair fly year round 2 or 3 times a day from Kirkwall, taking 15 min direct; some flights also call at Eday or Papa Westray and these take 35 min. Book online, or call them on ☏ +44 1856 872494. The schedule enables day trips in both directions. Fares are heavily subsidised and in 2024 an adult day-return is only £15, or £11 if you stay overnight on the island.

59.3688-2.43112 North Ronaldsay Airport (NRL  ^IATA) is central. The terminal is just a small waiting room with a shed for the fire truck.

Walk, it's not worth bringing a car.

Tommy Muir's taxi meets arriving flights, tel +44 1857 63244.

Bike hire is available ☏ +44 7778 182844 or email [email protected] and collect/return at the airport, ferry terminal or lighthouse. £10/day

• The Bird Observatory is 100 yards north of the ferry pier. It's open all year and has accommodation.
• Stan Stane is in a field north of the observatory. It's 13-ft-tall and pierced by a hole.
• The Sheep Dyke rings the island, 12 miles round. It's a dry-stone wall that keeps the sheep off the fields and forces them to live on the beach, eating the kelp. The sheep are feral, and their genetics suggest they were introduced from Scandinavia away back in the Iron Age with very little cross-breeding since. The breed is considered endangered, with only 600 pure-breed females; the only other flock is on Auskerry off the island of Stronsay. They're stocky and primarily used for wool: the meat has a distinctive salty, iodine taste. The wall was built in 1832 as a work-creation project when the kelp industry collapsed, along with nine "punds" — sheep pens, still used for lambing and shearing. Storms are damaging the wall faster than it can be maintained, but a warden repairs it. She describes this as "a mammoth task", implying another reason why the wall keeps getting bashed down.
• 59.348055-2.4189211 Broch of Burrian is an Iron Age fortified dwelling, though it may have been inhabited as late as the 9th century AD. It has defensive earthworks and very sturdy walls.
• Old Kirk is the ruin of a 19th century church with a graveyard. It's just south of the airport.
• 59.3843-2.371362 Dennis Head Old Beacon is a partly dismantled lighthouse, lit from 1789. It wasn't very effective and was unlit from 1809 as other Orkney lighthouses sprang up, but was retained as a day-mark, with its curious spherical tip added. The lightkeepers' houses here are also ruined.

• 59.3897-2.38133 The lighthouse, Dennis Ness KW17 2BG. Closed. This is still in use - Britain's tallest, at 139 ft (42 m), and you can ascend the spiral staircase within. From 1806 the Old Beacon was considered redundant when Start Point lighthouse was completed on Sanday, but North Ronaldsay's reefs soon forced a re-think. The low-lying island is difficult to spot in poor light, and a tall light was therefore needed, and built in 1852 with Alan Stevenson the architect. The visitor centre and lighthouse tours remain closed. (updated Jul 2024)
• Dark skies: there's very little light pollution, so September-April if you go outside on a clear night and give your eyes 20 min to adjust, the sky will fill with celestial objects. May-August it's a lost cause as the midsummer sky never gets properly dark.

• Look up your ancestors at the archives in the New Kirk. Open daily, donation.
• Sheep Fest is a week of summer community events, including repairing the sheep dyke. The next is 24-29 July 2024.

• The bird observatory and the Post Office have a few supplies. Easting Road Store in the north of the island has closed down.
• Yarn from North Ronaldsay is a knitware business using wool from the island sheep. It's based at the lighthouse visitor centre, same hours.

• The bird observatory is the only choice; there is an honesty-box shop on the road near the lighthouse that sells some food and drink.

• The Bird Observatory in 2024 has half-board in the guest house for £77 ppn and in the hostel for £51 ppn. Camping with use of the facilities is £7 ppn.

As of July 2024, there is some 4G coverage on the EE network, and 5G trials are ongoing.

• In summer you can sail to Westray, but all routes eventually bring you back to Kirkwall on the Orkney Mainland.
• The next island north, Fair Isle, is part of the Shetland Islands and you have to double back via Shetland Mainland to get there.