Papa Westray Voyage Tips and guide

Contents

Papa Westray is one of the Orkney Islands north of mainland Scotland - nearly the northernmost, but North Ronaldsay edges it by half a mile. Papa Westray measures 4 miles north-south and a mile across, and is more low-lying and fertile than nearby Westray. In 2011 it had 90 residents, who usually just call it "Papay", pronounced Papee — the name refers to medieval priests. There's no travel information centre, but see the island website for info.

By plane: Twice daily Loganair flights link Kirkwall with Papa Westray. These flights also stop at Westray just across the channel, making it the world's shortest scheduled flight, at just under two minutes. The flight between Kirkwall and North Ronaldsay also calls at Papa Westray on some days of the week.

59.351-2.8981 Papa Westray Airport (PPW  ^IATA) is midway along the island.

By boat the usual route is to first take the car ferry from Kirkwall on Orkney Mainland, which sails 2 or 3 times a day to Rapness at the south tip of Westray. There it's met by a minibus which takes you six miles north to Pierowall for the little inter-island ferry to Papa Westray. This sails May-Sep 3 to 6 times a day, taking 25 min, for foot passengers and bicycles only. Until April 2025, return fares from Kirkwall are £11.90 adult, £8.90 conc, £4.90 child. Day trips between Westray and Papay are also possible and the return fare is £5.90 adult.

Sailing Oct-April, or if you need to bring a vehicle, you need to take the Tuesday car ferry, which sails a triangular route between Kirkwall, Papay and North Ronaldsay.

59.328-2.892 South pier is the landing point for all ferries.

Walk: it's hardly worth bringing a bike here let alone a car.

• 59.3494-2.91061 Knap of Howar. 24 hours. This is the oldest standing domestic structure in northern Europe, occupied from about 3700 BC, earlier than Skara Brae. It comprises two thick-walled farm houses with stone furniture. Free. (updated Jul 2024)
• Holland Farm just south of the airfield has an attractive set of 17th-19th century buildings and the small "Bothy museum". You're free to look around anytime, but it's a working farm so take care around machinery, animals and so on.
• 59.3576-2.90182 St Boniface Kirk. This dates from the 12th century, built over a 9th-century Pictish settlement and church eroding into the sea. Winfrid Boniface (675-754) was born in Devon but became a leading figure in the early German church, and archbishop of Mainz. He was organising missionary work to the Picts at the time of his murder by robbers, so this is probably why an Orcadian church was dedicated to him. The building was restored in 1993 and remains in use as a church. (updated May 2023)

• 59.3672-2.8893 RSPB North Hill. M-F 9AM-5PM. Small hide for watching Arctic terns and other birds. In mid-May and again in July the Scottish Primrose (Primula scotica) is in bloom. But it's elusive, and you can't go tramping among the breeding birds - check with the ranger which paths are okay to take. There are guided walks May-Aug W Sa at 1:30PM. Free. (updated Jul 2024)
• 59.3732-2.86864 Leaper's Geo is a gully that the sea rages into when the weather is easterly. If anyone ever did try to leap it, he's not been seen since.
• 59.3414-2.88695 St Tredwell's Chapel is a scrappy ruin on a mound on the east bank of the freshwater St Tredwell's Loch. It's a medieval chapel built over an Iron Age settlement. The 8th-century Triduana, Tredwell or Trøllhaena was supposed to have plucked out her own eyes (no doubt in an empowered sort of way) when pestered by a suitor, and spent her later years in Restalrig in Edinburgh healing the blind. She was venerated at various spots including here, and ophthalmic miracles were ascribed to her.
• 59.35-2.8696 Holm of Papa is an islet 100 m east of Papa Westray. The Southcairn is a 20-metre-long chambered cairn from 3000 BC, used as a burial place, and with ancient carvings. A modern roof has been added to protect it, enter via the trapdoor. Ask at the hostel about boat trips to get here.

• Wildlife: bird life and seals are the main features, but always keep looking (including on the ferry), you never know what might come into view.
• Dark skies: Papa Westray is free of light pollution so expect starry skies and maybe the aurora borealis on any clear night September to April. In summer it's a lost cause as the sky never gets properly dark.

Papay Co-op is the only shop, in Beltane House next to the hostel and open M W-F 9-11AM, 3:30-5:30PM, Tu 9-11AM, Sa 9-11AM, 6-7PM.

• 59.3471-2.89571 Papa Westray Hostel, Beltane House KW17 2BU, ☏ +44 1857 644224. Open all year, clean and friendly, with rooms, pods and camping area. No dorm, but some rooms are shared. Single room £45, double room £68, single pod £40, double pod £62, camping £15. (updated Jul 2024)

As of July 2024, the island has no signal from any UK carrier.

• Westray can be reached without returning to the Mainland. It has sea stacks and cliffs and a 16th-century castle.
• North Ronaldsay can likewise be reached direct by air on some days of the week.
• Kirkwall is where all inter-island routes eventually return.