Pola de Lena Voyage Tips and guide

Pola de Lena (Asturian: La Pola) is a village in Asturias in the north of Spain, with a population of 7000 in 2024. It lies on a historic trade route through the mountains from León to Oviedo and the coast, and in the 20th century it had coal mines. This was never a major pilgrimage route but "Camino de San Salvador" is a modern invention, with a chain of pilgrim hostels.

43°9′29″N 5°49′44″W

Map of Pola de Lena

Pola de Lena is 25 km south of Oviedo on A-66. The nearest airport is Asturias (OVD ^IATA) on the coast west of Avilés: take the direct ALSA bus to Oviedo and change.

ALSA buses run every two hours from León, taking one hour to Pola de Lena and continuing to Mieres del Camino, Oviedo and Gijón.

Other local buses (run by CTA) are just for schoolchildren.

43.1641-5.82831 Plaza Principado de Asturias is the stop for inter-city buses. It's a roundabout just off A-66 at the north end of town.

RENFE Cercanías Train C1 runs every 30 min from Gijón Sanz Crespo via Oviedo, taking 30 min from Oviedo. Alternate trains continue south to Campomanes and Puente de los Fierros, another 15 min.

43.159-5.83112 Estacion de Tren is west side of Pola de Lena at Ramón y Cajal 19.

The town can be easily explored on foot, but you need wheels for outlying sights.

There's a taxi rank on Av de la Constitución near the railway station.

• Town centre is mostly bland modern low-rise. San Martín church was rebuilt in 1945 after its predecessor was wrecked in the Civil War.
• Town hall (Ayuntamiento) is within an 18th century mansion, on the main plaza 200 m southeast of the station. It was the birthplace of the prolific playwright Vital Aza (1851-1912).
• 43.186633-5.7855551 Palacio de Faes, Carabanzo. A dilapidated tower is all that remains of this 17th century baroque mansion, wrecked in the Civil War. It was built for Matías Faes Miranda, a judge who served in Manila.  (updated Feb 2026)
• San Román is a small church next to the Palacio, restored in 2010.
• 43.127333-5.8143062 Santa Cristina de Lena. Tu-Su 11:00-13:00. A Pre-Romanesque church completed in 852 AD, included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. It's no longer in use. Park at the junction by the railway and walk up the track. Adult €2, child €1.  (updated Feb 2026)
• 43.106-5.8193 Campumanes is a small village 6 km south, with basic accommodation. Nuestra Señora de las Nieves ("Our Lady of the Snows") is the 17th century church. Capilla del Santo Cristo is a dinky chapel nearby, also 17th century.

• El Camino de San Salvador is a 5-day pilgrimage trail from León to Oviedo. There you could join Camino Primitivo, the earliest documented trail to Santiago.
• Mountains rise to the south, with hiking trails. Pico El Cerrón is 1661 m.
• 42.978333-5.7752781 Valgrande-Pajares Resort (Estación Invernal y de Montaña Valgrande-Pajares), ☏ +34 985 957097. On the boundary with Castille, this has a skiable area of 30.9 km of slopes, accessed by 1 cable car, 2 chairlifts, 2 ski lifts, and 2 conveyors. It has two cross-country routes and a sledging area. It has accommodation for 140 at the foot of the slopes.  (updated Feb 2026)

Supermarkets include are Día north end of town, and Spar and Alimerka midtown. They're all open M-Sa 09:00-21:00.

Banks with ATMs are on Vital Aza, a block north of Town Hall.

Eating places include La Fragata, Mesón Asturias, Los Collacios, Café Ca`lalluna, Filanguiru, El rincón de mya, Sidreria El Valle, La Cava de Los Cinco, Pizzbit, R y M El Acebo and Incastur.

A dozen bars are scattered along the road.

Cider is the main drink in Asturias.

• Albergue de Peregrinos, Ramón y Cajal 20 (by railway station), ☏ +34 682 577256. Municipal-run pilgrim hostel open April-Sep, okay for what you pay. (updated Feb 2026)
• Albergue Roma, Canuto Hevia 12 (100 m south of station), ☏ +34 677 856645. Basic hostel, the rooms are okay but the communal areas aren't kept clean. Bunk €15. (updated Feb 2026)
• Hotel Ruta de la Plata, Vital Aza 6 (100 m east of station), ☏ +34 985 497701. Comfy central hotel, pet-friendly. B&B double €90. (updated Feb 2026)
• Hotel La Payareta, Luis Menendez Pidal 12 (300 m northeast of station), ☏ +34 650 099557. Central, clean and friendly, good value. B&B double €60. (updated Feb 2026)
• Hotel Lena, La Playa 4 (500 m southeast of station), ☏ +34 985 493234. Basic place, more like a hostel, with noise from the highway. B&B double €50. (updated Feb 2026)
• Campumanes has a grubby pilgrim hostel "Hospedaje Senda del Huerna" (bring your own sleeping bag) plus a couple of guesthouses.

As of Feb 2026, Pola de Lena and the highways along the valley have 5G from all Spanish carriers, but the signal fades up the side roads into the mountains.

• Mieres del Camino is the next large village heading north.
• Oviedo further north is mostly modern, but with a fine cathedral.
• León south over the mountains has a splendid historic centre.