Talpa de Allende, universally referred to only as Talpa, is a small rural town in the highlands of Jalisco in Western Mexico. It's a quaint colonial era town with historic buildings, cobblestone streets and a romantic vibe. It's also the focal point of a pilgrimage for religious faithful who come to the town's Basilica seeking cures for incurable ailments. Millions of people come to the town each year to pray for miracles. The town is one of Mexico's designated Pueblos Mágicos.
Understand
[edit]Talpa was first settled in 1540 with minerals being discovered in 1599, leading to the establishments of the first mines in the area. The town was a haven for liberal politicians during Mexico's Reform War in the mid 19th century.
Pilgrimages
[edit]Talpa's Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Rosario is the destination of a popular pilgrimage route. The pilgrims come to see a small statue of the Virgin of the Rosary, called La Chaparrita. Millions of pilgrims come to the Basilica each year on October 7 and during Holy week (the week before Easter). All pilgrims arrive by walking, some a few kilometers, though the traditional Ruta del Peregrino starts in the city of Ameca, 117 km from Talpa. Pilgrims sleep along the route at the abandoned cathedral in Mascota and are provided with food and drink along the way by fellow Christians as an act of charity.
Climate
[edit]Talpa has a mild, humid subtropical climate. The average temperature is 21.3 °C. The dry season occurs in the winter and spring months with summer being the rainiest time of year, particularly the months of June and July. Visitors should generally dress comfortably for a warm day, but pack a sweater or jacket in the fall and winter months because nighttime temperatures get chilly.
Get in
[edit]
Talpa is 200 km west of Guadalajara or 100 km inland from the Pacific coast. The closest major airport with commercial flights is Puerto Vallarta (PVR IATA). The international airport in Guadalajara (GDL IATA) is a bit further but still within reasonable driving distance.
By car
[edit]From Guadalajara, drive west on federal highway MEX-70 for 200 km. The drive will take just over 3 hours.
From Puerto Vallarta, drive east on state highway JAL-544 for 125 km. (Actually, the road follows an arc, so you'll travel northeast from Puerto Vallarta, then east, then south.) The drive will take about 2 hours, 35 minutes.
By bus
[edit]Talpa is served by frequent buses operated by ATM (Autotransportes Guadalajara Talpa Mascota). From Puerta Vallarta, there are 5 buses each day to Talpa and tickets for the 2½-hour trip costs about M$200.
From Guadalajara, ATM buses depart from the Central Vieja (Old Bus Terminal) downtown. Buses depart every 3 hours for the 3½-hour trip. Tickets cost M$300. The bus has one scheduled stop in Ameca, but this is a second-class bus and will stop in other places where passengers want to board or get off.
- 1 Central Camionera Talpa, Calle 23 de Junio. Full-service bus station with ticketing, baggage claim, and waiting area. Restrooms cost M$5. Frequent buses to and from Guadalajara or Puerto Vallarta.
Get around
[edit]It's a small town and walking or bicycling are the best ways to get around. Taxis are available for further trips. There are usually waiting taxis at a sitios next to the Plaza Principal, or your hotel staff can call a taxi for you. Uber or other ride-share apps do not work in rural small towns like this.
See
[edit]
- 1 Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary of Talpa. Daily 07:00 - 20:00. Beautiful colonial era church whose construction began in 1782. It is opulently decorated with paintings and statues of saints and angels, particularly a small statue of the Virgin of the Rosary, housed at the back of the church's main altar.
- 2 Plaza de Talpa de Allende (Town Square). The town's main public plaza is an open area paved with concrete blocks with fountains, statues, and iron benches under towering palm trees. The Basilica is nearby as are shops and restaurants.
- 3 Museum of the Virgin of Talpa, Vicente Guerrero 8, Centro. Small regional history museum that focuses on the pilgrimages to see the town's iconic small statue.
- 4 Callejón de los Murales (Mural Alley), C. Oaxaca 40-26, Centro. A 3-block area is covered in colorful murals of fantasy, nature and historical interest.
Do
[edit].jpg)
- Maple Forest, 7 km from Talpa is a forest of maple trees that might have you thinking you'd made a wrong turn and ended up in Canada! There's no sign to the forest but locals can guide you, though it's not hard to find: drive out of Talpa and when you reach the KM 18 marker, keep your eyes peeled for an open area with a logging road, follow that road until you pass a quarry on your left, you'll be about a mile to the forest (there are signs here)
Festivals
[edit]- Feast of Our Lady of the Rosary - October 7 is the most important day of the year in Talpa, it's a celebration of the town's patron saint, and a hugely important day of pilgrimage for many faithful who walk the long journey to Talpa. Pilgrims enter the town accompanied by a brass band of trumpets and tubas while the pilgrims themselves often walk on their knees into the Basilica. Aztec dancers in full costume regalia perform in the plaza in front of the church.
- Semana Santa (Easter week) - an important holiday period for Christians throughout the world, it is also one of the peak pilgrimage periods when people come to pray to the Virgin for miracles.
- Feria de Guayaba - the third week of November is the town's Guava Fair, celebrating the town's most prolific fruit. Local growers and cooks have jellies, candies, and baked goods made from the sweet fruit. There are cultural events, competitions and exhibitions.
Buy
[edit]- 1 Mercado Municipal, Benito Juarez, Centro (next to the Basilica). Daily 06:00 - 22:00. Traditional town marketplace with vendors selling fresh produce, meat, candies and other foods. Hall filled with vendors selling prepared foods including regional specialties like birria de chiva (goat stew). Good place for inexpensive wholesome food.
Eat
[edit]- 1 Restaurant Casa Grande, Panorámica 11, Centro, ☏ +52 388 385 0709. W-M 14:00 - 22:00, closed Tu. Traditional Mexican served in an open-air palapa style dining room. The house specialty is grilled meats so stick to dishes like the carne asada accompanied by guacamole and queso fundido. Full bar with delicious cocktails. M$250.
- 2 El Molino Rojo, Independencia 15, Centro. Daily 08:00 - 21:00. Traditional Mexican restaurant with rustic style dining room. Menu has a lot of grilled meats and seafood dishes. Full bar with large cocktails.
- 3 El Famoso Zurdo, Indepencia 22, Centro, ☏ +52 388 385 1378. Daily 08:30 - 18:00. Regional Jalisco cuisine with a definite emphasis on the birria. Handmade corn tortillas served hot off the comal.
- 4 La Burrita, Independencia 14, Centro, ☏ +52 388 385 1126. Tu-Su 14:00 - 22:00, closed M. Eclectic place with a varied international menu. You can get a pizza here, or a grilled ribeye steak, seafood, or some Mexican standbys. M$250.
- 5 El Herradero, C. Veintitrés de Junio #8, Centro, ☏ +52 388 385 0376. M-F 08:00 - 18:00, Sa Su 08:00 - 19:00. Regional Jalisco cuisine with handmade tortillas, birria (with goat or with beef). Often crowded (because it's good). M$250.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]- 1 Hotel Arboledas, Benito Juárez 1, La Palma, ☏ +52 388 385 0697. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Barebones budget hotel with tiny cramped rooms with even tinier bathrooms. M$300.
- 2 Hotel de Jesus, Abasolo 7, Centro, ☏ +52 388 688 0369. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Tidy small moderate hotel with spacious clean rooms that have TV and internet. Parking available in adjacent lot.
- 3 Doña Francisca Hotel Boutique, Independencia 9A, Centro, ☏ +52 388 385 0549. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Upscale boutique hotel with rustic furnishings and modern touches. Spacious, comfortable rooms include smart TVs and internet. On-site restaurant available. M$1700.
- 4 Hotel Diamante, C. Veintitrés de Junio 27, Centro, ☏ +52 388 385 1052. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Budget hotel with small rooms with basic furnishings.
- 5 , Independencia 81, ☏ +52 388 385 0109. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Moderate hotel with traditional decor, clean, comfortable rooms with TV and WiFi (though WiFi is weak in many parts of hotel). Secure off-street parking available.
- 6 Cabañas la Parota, Xicoténcatl 50, Libertad, ☏ +52 388 101 4696. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Cluster of modern cabins for rent on the edge of town. Cabins can accommodate up to 12 guests, so they're a good option for families. Cabins have modern bathrooms, gas grills, full kitchens, and fireplaces in the living rooms.
- 7 Hotel San Francisco, Independencia 23, Centro, ☏ +52 388 385 0543. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Basic budget hotel with somewhat small rooms with basic furnishings. No heat in the winter months. No elevators. M$500.