Tochimilco is a small mountainous town in the Central Mexican state of Puebla. It is on the southern slopes of the Popocateptl volcano and is best known for its 16th century monastery, the Ex-Convento de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, which is a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Understand
[edit]The nearby Popocateptl volcano is an active volcano that has been constantly erupting since 1994. Every day you can see a plume of smoke at its peak and ash particulate falls on the town in various amounts depending on the winds. You may have to wipe a layer of dust off your windshield when you go out in the morning.
Get in
[edit]The nearest major airport is Benito Juárez International Airport in Mexico City. There is a bus terminal inside the airport that is served by the Volcanes bus line (among others). Buy a ticket on Volcanes going to Popopark (Autlan). The bus will take about 90 minutes and cost about M$100 (Feb 2026). From Popopark, take a taxi the last 30 km to Tochimilco. From anywhere else in Mexico City, take Metro to the San Lazaro station, which connects to the TAPO bus terminal. Volcanes buses depart for Popopark roughly every 20 minutes.
Get around
[edit]See
[edit]- 1 Ex-Convento de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Monastery of Our Lady of the Assumption). Historic 16th century mission that was constructed between 1550 and 1598. The church resembles a fortress, like many missions of the period when the Spanish feared reprisals by indigenous populations. The interior features many original frescoes and is particularly well-known for a large wood sculpture of St. Francis that was carved by an indigenous craftsman. The church and monastery are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The mission was damaged by a 2017 earthquake but repairs have been restored its previous grandeur.
- 2 Aqueduct, Tochimilco. The aqueduct was originally built by the Nahua people who settled the town and lived here prior to the colonial era. It was expanded after the Spanish conquered the town. It feeds an ornate octagonal fountain near the Plaza Principal. The octagonal fountain was designed by Fray Diego de Olarte in 1560.
- 3 Santuario del Señor del Calvario (Sanctuary of Our Lord of Calvary), Calle Sacromonte. 16th century church that houses one of the largest sculptures of Christ on the cross in Mexico. The church was built on top of an indigenous temple and some of the stones from the original temple were used to build the Christian church. The sanctuary is sometimes known as "Our Lord of the Rains" because in 1956, the figure of Christ on the cross was credited for bringing a deluge of heavy rains, ending a long drought. The church was heavily damaged in a 2017 earthquake that caused the dome and bell tower to collapse, reconstruction is still proceeding and parts of the historic structure may be closed to visitors.
- 4 Parque Central (Zocalo), Plaza Principal 17. The town square is a beautifully manicured garden with towering pine trees and a large 2-story central bandstand, along with stone walkways, statues and memorials. It's a great place for people watching and for picking up some cheap street food from strolling vendors.
Do
[edit]- Hiking is a popular activity in Tochimilco, given the nearby forested hills that make up the slopes of Popocatépetl. Most of the trails offer plenty of shade, and with an altitude over 2000 meters, temperatures are usually mild. Some of the best trails areː
- Popocatépetl Foothills: 11-mile challenging route explores areas close to the active volcano.
- Cerro Las Mesas: An easier 2.5-mile trail that's also good for mountain biking, hiking, or running, passing through pine forests near Santa Catalina Cuilotepec.
- Cerro Xilotepetl: A more difficult 4.2-mile trail with idyllic vistas of rolling fields and mountain peaks.
- Santiago Tochimizolco Trail: Easy short 1.9 mile trail along a small stream.
Buy
[edit]Eat
[edit]- 1 Finca Mariana & Marcos Tochimilco, ☏ +52 221 580 3997. F-M 09ː00 - 17ː00, closed Tu-Th. Old farmhouse restored and converted into a country restaurant with both indoor and outdoor dining areas. The menu is regional Poblano cuisine and traditional Mexican dishes. The outdoor setting is peaceful with abundant shade trees. They also have 3 bungalows for rent to overnight guests.
- 2 La Doña, Plaza Principal 12, ☏ +52 244 441 0646. Daily 08ː00 - 19ː00. Small traditional taqueria serving breakfast and basic standbys and antojitos. The enfrijoladas are recommended, particularly with ham and cheese. Good aguas frescas. Clean and friendly. M$150.
- 3 Comida Casera Doña Mary, Calle Manjarrez, ☏ +52 244 100 0201. Sa-Su 08ː00 - 18ː00, closed M-F. Super casual roadside place with traditional home cooking just like abuela used to make. M$150.
Drink
[edit]Sleep
[edit]- 1 Hotel d'Silva, Av. Ignacio Zaragoza 9, Centro, ☏ +52 244 441 0255. Check-in: 15ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Traditional small Mexican hotel with basic but clean rooms set around a central courtyard. Not many frills, but the low rates and excellent location right on the main plaza make it a good choice for the backpacker or budget traveler. The attached restaurant, Corazon de Lupita, serves delicious regional and traditional Mexican dishes. M$700.
