Western Kenya Voyage Tips and guide

Western Kenya is a region of Kenya and includes Nyanza and Western provinces of the same name.

Although the region has much to offer in terms of landscape and culture, it has played a relatively minor role in tourism to date. It is often used as a transit area en route to Uganda. Thanks to its strong agricultural character, it is of particular interest to travellers who want to venture off the beaten track.

Map of Western Kenya

The towns themselves do not have much to offer tourists. They are better suited to serving as supply stations or places to stop overnight when travelling through the area.

• 0.46534.10011 Busia - (~70,000 inhabitants). Busia is a border town with Uganda. It has currency exchange offices, a bank, hospitals, restaurants, bars and hotels. Buses run several times a day from the bus station to Bungoma, Kisumu, Nairobi and other destinations.
• 0.51666735.2833332 Eldoret - (~500,000 inhabitants). It is the fastest growing city in Kenya and the birthplace of many Kenyan running stars. World-renowned training centres for long-distance runners are located near the city.
• -0.51666734.453 Homa Bay - (~65,000 inhabitants). The town primarily serves as a gateway to the Rusinga and Mfangano Islands, as well as to the Ruma National Park.
• 0.28333334.754 Kakamega - (~100,000 inhabitants) Rural supply centre without tourist attractions. Most of the town's inhabitants are Luhya. There is an airport for domestic flights.
• -0.36916735.2838895 Kericho - (~45,000 inhabitants). As the capital of tea cultivation, there are no other sights to see here. However, the surrounding area is home to tea plantations and factories where tea is fermented and packaged, which are well worth a visit.
• -0.669834.76756 Kisii - (~120,000 inhabitants). Due to its altitude of around 1,700 metres, the climate is pleasant for Europeans. The town is characterised mainly by coffee, tea and other agricultural production, as the surrounding land is fertile.
• -0.134.757 Kisumu — the third largest city in Kenya, and made the first Millennium city in the World by the UN. It is known for its ownership of the second largest lake in the world, Lake Victoria, and is mainly made up of the Luo tribe.
• 1.016667358 Kitale - (~200,000 inhabitants). Situated at an altitude of around 1,900 metres between Mount Elgon and the Cherangani Mountains, it is a central trading hub for the surrounding agricultural region.
• -1.06666734.4666679 Migori - (~50,000 inhabitants]. The town has good infrastructure as it is the centre of the surrounding villages. There are numerous small hotels and restaurants, as well as a bank, petrol stations, a market and hospitals. A road leads from Migori to the Masai Mara National Reserve. Direct bus services and flights are available from Nairobi.

• 0.29166734.8561111 Kakamega Rainforest - The rainforest, only a small part of which remains, is home to a unique variety of rare plants, mammals, birds, insects, reptiles and amphibians.
• 1.13333334.5833332 Mount Elgon National Park - Straddling the border between Kenya and Uganda, the park is a mosaic of grasslands, swamps, moors and mountain rainforest. Visitors may catch a glimpse of leopards, elands, buffalo, bushbucks and giant forest hogs, as well as small populations of shy elephants.
• -0.89133834.3261073 Thimlich Ohinga — a world heritage site outside Migori in the southwestern corner of Kenya. This is a well-preserved dry-stone walled settlement built in the 16th century.
• -0.434.1666674 Rusinga Island - Thanks to its location, the island is a very popular tourist destination. As well as nature, fishing is also a popular activity. The large perch around Rusinga Island make it attractive to anglers. The island is also home to a wide variety of species, particularly birds. The island's hills are popular hiking destinations, offering stunning views of Lake Victoria.
• -0.61666734.3166675 Ruma National Park - Ruma National Park is Kenya's last sanctuary for the endangered roan antelope. Situated in the flat Lambwe River valley, the park is bordered by the Kanyamwa escarpment to the southeast and the volcanic cones of the Ruri Mountains to the north, and is seasonally irrigated. With its diverse landscape of floodplain forests, rolling savannahs, imposing escarpments and towering cliffs, Ruma National Park is home to a variety of wildlife and beautiful scenery.
• 1.135.1166676 Saiwa Swamp National Park - At approximately three square kilometres, it is the country's smallest national park. It was established to protect the marsh antelope (Tragelaphus spekii). The park is also home to over 370 species of bird, as well as monkeys, porcupines, otters, snakes and fish. The park includes the marshland along a small river and parts of the surrounding rainforest.
• -1337 Lake Victoria - It is the largest inland lake in Africa and the second largest freshwater lake in the world in terms of area, with fascinating nature, rich wildlife, cultural diversity and leisure activities such as boat trips, fishing and island exploration. However, swimming in the lake is life-threatening due to parasites, hippos and crocodiles.

Western Kenya is a very ethnically diverse region. The Luo people mainly inhabit the counties of Kisumu, Siaya, Homa Bay and Migori, which are located on the shores of Lake Victoria. The Luhya are mainly found in Kakamega, Bungoma, Vihiga and Busia counties. The Kisii live mainly in Kisii and Nyamira counties to the southeast of Lake Victoria; the Nandi live in Nandi County; the Kalenjin and their subgroups live in Kericho and Bomet counties; and the Teso live in Busia County near the Ugandan border.

The Western Province's landscape is well worth seeing. Every bend in the road reveals something new. The landscape of western Kenya is dominated by the Great Rift Valley. The dry depression, dotted with lakes and acacia savannahs, contrasts sharply with the lush green plateaus covered in tea plantations that border it. To the west, the plain opens up to Lake Victoria, while to the south are the vast grasslands of the Maasai Mara, home to characteristic wildlife, and to the north are the rainforests of Kakamega, creating an interesting diversity of landscapes.

Bus services form the backbone of public transport between Nairobi and the major cities in western Kenya. The network is dense, frequent and well-developed. The main providers are: Easy Coach, Modern Coast, Dreamline, Guardian Bus and Mash Poa. However, it is quicker to fly from Nairobi to Kisumu.

Matatus (minibuses) and motorbike taxis travel between urban centres and rural areas along often adventurous routes. Allow plenty of time for this, especially in the rainy season when the roads are soft. If you want to travel quickly, take a taxi. Rental cars (4WD) should only be hired with a driver.

The old metre gauge rail network has been restored, and Kenya Railways passenger trains run from Nairobi to Kisumu. A first class ticket to Kisumu costs Ksh2,400 and an economy class ticket costs Ksh900 (Dec 2024). The travel time is quite slow (about 13 hours) as the old colonial rail network meanders through the landscape.

There are passenger ferries between Kisumu and ports in Uganda and Tanzania; schedules and bookings are available at the port or local shipping agencies. The main route is between Kisumu and Mwanza in Tanzania.

• 1.032434.758068 Kitum Caves - The forest near to Kitale is home to some impressive caves that are well worth a visit.
• 1.1383135.240529 Kapcherop Forest - This tropical mountain forest close to Kitale is ideal for hiking and picnicking, and its scenic beauty captivates visitors.
• -0.627534.822510 Manga Ridge - Standing at the edge of the cliff, visitors can enjoy beautiful views of the town of Kisii and the natural forest of the mountainous terrain.
• -0.640434.869611 Keera Waterfall - The 35-metre-high waterfall is located in the middle of the forest and is just a few minutes' walk from a dirt road. There are caves of historical and cultural significance at the bottom of the waterfall.
• -0.3850135.1763112 Chereres Waterfall - Scenic waterfall near Kericho.

• Game drives in one of the national parks.
• Guided hikes, bird watching (over 400 species), observing primates such as colobus monkeys in the Kakamega rainforest or hiking on the slopes of the Rift Valley (e.g. near Eldoret).
• Boat trips on Lake Victoria, fishing (especially for Nile perch), visits to fishing villages such as Mbita, relaxation on the beach.

The most important staple food is ugali, a thick porridge made from cornmeal that is served with almost every meal. Small pieces are broken off and used to scoop up sauces, vegetables and fish. It is usually accompanied by a variety of fresh vegetables, such as sukuma wiki (a type of kale), kienyeji (a local leafy vegetable), and plantains. None of these foods are to Western tastes and it takes some getting used to.

A regional highlight, especially among the Luo people, is 'nyama choma', which is grilled goat or beef shared socially with the hands. Another typical Luo dish is 'aliya', smoked beef. This is particularly popular with the rural population at celebrations, as it is too expensive for everyday meals.

Nile perch and tilapia from Lake Victoria are also popular. These are often grilled whole ('grilled fish'), stewed in a spicy tomato and onion sauce ('fish stew') for those who can afford it, or sun-dried omena (a type of small sardine) as a protein-rich side dish widely eaten by poorer people.

Of course, in the cities you can also find everything that tourists generally like to eat, including pizza, fast food and steaks with chips.

Nightlife only exists in larger cities. In the countryside, people occasionally visit one of the basic pubs to watch football with friends, but usually they go to 'sleep with the chickens'. Funerals and weddings are the social highlights for the rural population. Everyone and their brother gets together for days on end with lots of food and far too loud music.

• Mosquitoes: Due to the climate and proximity to Lake Victoria, mosquitoes are a minor nuisance in the evenings. Very few of them bite, but they come in swarms. From 9 p.m. onwards, it becomes uncomfortable outside and everyone leaves.

• Malaria: The Western Province is considered a malaria epidemic zone. If you are susceptible to malaria, it is almost impossible to avoid contracting the disease in these circumstances. Some people never contract the disease, but most are affected regularly, especially in September. Coartem is the most effective treatment, but it is not always available in rural areas. Lonart is also effective, but you have to take slightly more of it. If that doesn't help, the only option is to go to hospital. There, you will be given an injection of quinine. It's a cute name for a nasty substance. The side effects are severe. Therefore, quinine should always be a last resort. If you are receiving outpatient treatment, you must not drive under any circumstances. It can cause significant disturbances to your consciousness and sense of orientation, as well as hearing loss. You will receive one injection on each of three consecutive days. If you want to stay in hospital, it is generally better to have this done on an inpatient basis. Therefore Short-term travellers should take malaria prophylaxis!

• Sun: You have to be careful in the sun. If you haven't got sunburnt on the coast, you're guaranteed to get sunburnt in western Kenya if you don't protect yourself with a strong sun cream.